Author Topic: Squeaky Drum Brakes & A Terrible Mechanic. (Read 57756 times)

Spool · « **Reply #75 on:** April 02, 2021, 05:53:03 pm »

Thanks, Johnny.

The drivers side was done correctly then, with one of the tabs lining up in one of the 6 grooves. The passenger side, nope- just a few bent against the lock nut. And I'd say just close to half of them are 'chewed' and bent. I hope I can get away with keeping this one for now.

Speaking of Torque, I'll need a new Torque wrench that exceeds the one I have now which is 80lbs.
Being on a budget, anyone have any recommendations? I'd like to get this craftsman one for $90 which is 50-250ftlb and 29inches long, but I think I can get something closer to the $50 range for now.

I might go EPAuto - https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-2-inch-Torque-Wrench-13-6-203-5/dp/B01LX4NIFK/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=torque%2Bwrench&qid=1617403572&refinements=p_36%3A-8000&rnid=1243644011&s=hi&sr=1-8&th=1

I found them online and then they came up in a google search for top 9 torque wrenches in 2021 (for whatever that's worth.)

(I'm not thrilled about going cheap on new tools, but as mentioned, there's a budget on this one.)

frotosride · « **Reply #76 on:** April 02, 2021, 08:52:49 pm »

Don't be scared of the cheapos.. I have been using a type3 (click/break) style from Harbor Freight for years. Taught a calibration school at one point and decided to test it on a $15000 torque calibration box... This dang thing was within .06 of desired torque at all 3 calibration points. The accuracy is within 10% of any of the three calibration points or it fails.

Mike81K10 · « **Reply #77 on:** April 02, 2021, 08:59:33 pm »

$90 for the Craftsman is not bad. A good torque wrench is important. If you get a really cheep one it may not be calibrated very well and could be off by quite a bit, as a result you could over or under torque a bolt or nut and even break one. Also some torque wrenches can be recalibrated if needed, if they are of better quality. The Craftsman may be one of those and when you look at the data, it will tell you how well it is calibrated (+ or - .5, 1.0, and etc). You also have breakaway, digital, and the gauge with the needle (not as popular).

Spool · « **Reply #78 on:** April 02, 2021, 09:23:12 pm »

All I needed was one confirmation that I could get by with the cheapo for now, thanks Froto.

Mike, $90 is great for a craftsman. But I'm just not there right now at all.
Pinching every penny right now on this job, especially until I know what to fully understand what the repair will be.

Thanks guys.

frotosride · « **Reply #79 on:** April 03, 2021, 01:45:56 pm »

Np at all, I'm always in the same boat and it may not be everyone's thought process however, id rather have the knowledge that everything is torqued down to the same spec than to guess what I did with just my hands. Plus, after testing these things my few doubts have disappeared. I fully expected it to fail!

Spool · « **Reply #80 on:** April 04, 2021, 12:02:57 am »

Alright! Making progress (and having a lot of fun doing it even if all I did was remove the drums.)

Got the outer lock nut off, tab ring, and inner lock nut off, but the outer bearings would not come out.
There's play in them, but they're not coming out. So, I pulled the drum and housing off with ease.

There is plenty and plenty of brake dust inside. I didn't push, blow or clean any of it at the moment and stayed clear of breathing any in.
The brake shoes are a brand called Centric, which isn't the Cardone shoes he told me he put in...
"I put in Cardone Heavy Duty Brake Shoes for you because the truck is so big." - Liar.

I'm keeping the order of everything coming off, even if only I have 4 parts at the moment including the drum.
I intend to print out a photo of the brakes themselves on a full piece of paper to use as a type of map when disassembling the brakes.

From here, I'd like to confirm what you guys could see as the culprit.
Thankfully, I do think it's just the brakes as the axel rods I pulled out seem to be perfectly healthy with no chips or signs of grinding on their grooves/teeth.

I'd like to compile a full list of parts before spending the money to UBER to Pepboys with everything from brake cleaner to shoe themselves.
I accidentally touched the inside of the drum with my greasy glove, so I'll have to clean that as well - what to use - brake cleaner?
If anyone could help me put together a list of needed items, I'd be forever grateful.

For the pictures... Here we go, anything pop out at you guys? *The shoes already look rough and the brake dust after just two weeks of hardly driving anywhere other than the food store seems like an awful lot.

I'll post many pictures now, first of the passenger side and then of the driver's side.

Spool · « **Reply #81 on:** April 04, 2021, 12:03:49 am »

Passenger Side:

Spool · « **Reply #82 on:** April 04, 2021, 12:07:12 am »

Drivers Side:

Spool · « **Reply #83 on:** April 04, 2021, 12:08:09 am »

Drivers Side:

VileZambonie · « **Reply #84 on:** April 04, 2021, 05:52:38 am »

The parking brake strut springs are upside down. Cap off the axle and hose them off good with your garden hose. Seems to be a lot of brake dust. Use a screwdriver to lift the shoe from the backing plate and see if the lands are lubricated. How was the adjustment? Looks like they were overadjusted

Spool · « **Reply #85 on:** April 04, 2021, 09:17:21 am »

Quote from: VileZambonie on April 04, 2021, 05:52:38 am

The parking brake strut springs are upside down. Cap off the axle and hose them off good with your garden hose. Seems to be a lot of brake dust. Use a screwdriver to lift the shoe from the backing plate and see if the lands are lubricated. How was the adjustment? Looks like they were overadjusted

Parking brake strut springs are upside down... No bueno. My e brake hasn’t worked since I bought the truck/ foot pedal never moves, so I never forced it.

I’ll find something to cap the Axel and hose off right away this morning to take all new pictures. I’ll try my best to collect the water and dust in a Home Depot bucket as to best avoid a muddy work area.

I’ll carefully pry back the shoes a bit (1/4”? 3/8”?) with a flathead screwdriver while wearing some eye protection as I’m not sure where and where there is not any loaded tension that could spring loose on me.

I wouldn’t know about the adjustment because I don’t have that experience, but the drum on the drivers side was definitely touching the rear facing shoe as I felt friction when pulling it off.

Spool · « **Reply #86 on:** April 04, 2021, 12:52:25 pm »

Hosed it all down and took new photos.
Some of the landings appear to lubed.
I'm gonna go with a wild guess here and say the brakes aren't centered. 1/2'' gap on the rear side and 1/4'' gap on front side for both sides of the cars from the shoe to the edge of the backing plate - you can see this from the inside of the shoes placement on the landings of the backing plate. Thoughts?

I'll post all new pictures with the dust removed now- drivers side first: