Squeaky Drum Brakes & A Terrible Mechanic.

[Spool]

These brake shoes... I'm trying to figure out if they're any good or not.
Quick google shows the brand is cheap for economy cars.
A more thorough search shows they have different types of shoes with mixed reviews.

Centric
CEN 11102480
111AC4607 66 29 N20

The mechanic told me he put heavy-duty Cardone shoes in there, which they clearly are not.

By searching CEN 11102480 I can see they sell for ~$30 with 'Front Drum Brakes' continuing to pop up...
With these specs:

https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/vehicle-fleet-maintenance/vehicle-brake-systems/disc-pads-and-brake-shoes/centric-premium-brake-shoes-centric-parts-11102480

I've been redundant in explaining I'm on a budget, but with the budget I do have, I would like my brakes to be top-notch not only for the truck and myself but before I let my wife drive this thing. Any thoughts? I'm expecting to head to Pep-Boys today with a shopping list.

[Spool]

Hey Vile,
When you said the parking brake strut springs were upside down, are you referring to the tab facing downwards opposed to upwards?
I'm watching this video on youtube right now, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wlQN1o_0YQ and he too has the tab pointing downwards.

[Spool]

I just called PepBoys and spoke with the garage to explain the situation and ask what heavy-duty brake shoes they would use:
-He said Raybestos, Bendix or Wagner.

I asked, if it was your 73, 3/4ton, 350 truck, what shoes would you use?
He said, Raybestos.

I asked, do you carry Raybestos?
He said, no.

I asked, what brand that you carry would you put in your truck?
He said, I wouldn't put anything we carry in my truck.

Hahaha. Not the first time they've had this attitude.
Thoughts?

[JohnnyPopper]

Spool-Man!

Seems you're working on two different trucks?

Or am I just going mad???

[Spool]

That screenshot above is from a K20 in a YouTube video that I used as a reference for Viles comment about the spring being upside down.

(I just changed the screenshot to show the YouTube logo on it to avoid confusion.)

[JohnnyPopper]

Thanks! I was about to start drinking...

[VileZambonie]

It's a common mistake, the loop on the strut spring should be in the "up" position. Those shoes look like they were in the beat them on position. I'm willing to bet, inexperience and overadjusted is your whole issue.

[Spool]

Well, where do you guys suggest I go from here? I’m kinda sitting in the dark guessing from different YouTube videos on what to do next.
-new shoes- what size?
-wheel cylinder?
-lube the landings?
-should they be offset as they are with a 1/2” on one side and 1/4” on the other or should they be centered?
-What do you guys think of Centric and what brand shoes do you use?
-do I need to add more diff fluid now that I’ve lost some?
-do I need add a lube/grease to anything when I put it back together?
-locktite on the Axel bolts?

Mind you, I’m completely inexperienced, so I’m bound to make the same mistake without the proper sources. I’ve been watching YouTube videos all day but I’m kind of relying on this forum to point the light in the right direction for me.

If it were you, and you loved your truck, what would you do and with what brand/parts?

[Spool]

So, for example and I hate to be needy or to put pressure on this thread, but I’m about to take everything apart this afternoon, confirm with you guys and which parts/brands would be best, order them and then put it all back together- hopefully no later than a week from now.

So, if I take it all apart, and clean my backing plate, what is the best shoes I can buy?
Was Pepboys correct on their recommendation of Raybestos?
I’ve already confirmed my shoes are not heavy duty with the part number.

This...
1. Take it all apart.
2. Clean my backing plate
3. Order new shoes

Correct?

[VileZambonie]

Take your hand and push the shoes in the opposite directions and you will see they float on the backing plate. The shoes move back and forth on the lands. The primary shoe lifts off the anchor pin and the rear shoe wedges into the drum up against the anchor pin on duo-servo brakes.

[VileZambonie]

Your shoes are the standard $50 shoe and should work fine as long as they are not damaged

[Spool]

Take your hand and push the shoes in the opposite directions and you will see they float on the backing plate. The shoes move back and forth on the lands. The primary shoe lifts off the anchor pin and the rear shoe wedges into the drum up against the anchor pin on duo-servo brakes.

Yes, they do move. I learned about how the trailing does more of the work because of the rotation of the wheel and that’s why the leading shoe is ‘shorter.’

I learned about this in this video:

https://youtu.be/P8qMfFtj6Vo

But, because they move, should they be centered? Or rather, is it okay that the leading has 1/4” gap and a the trailing has a 1/2” gap?

[Spool]

Your shoes are the standard $50 shoe and should work fine as long as they are not damaged

There was quite a bit of dust for two weeks and little driving. Also, in the pictures o attached earlier, they are a bit knicked and scored near the top.

I’m thinking it would be wise to get heavy duty brake shoes as the mechanic normally told me. What brand do you like to use?

The inside diameter of my drums measure ~11.5”
So it’s safe to assume I need the specific, 11.5/32” heavy duty brake shoes.

That mechanic said he machined these drums - do I need to buy a tool to check the measure of this?
I'd like to buy new shoes this evening if possible.

As for my wheel cylinder - I don’t see any leaking. But when I touch the (silicon?) closing on either side, a bit of brake fluid came out. Do you think my wheel cylinders look healthy?

[JohnnyPopper]

Your shoes look fine and brand new, never mind the scoring and chips. I would save the bucks and run these until next time, you can upgrade then.

Your wheel cylinders look good too, no leaking on top of the E-brake blade. Don't worry if you find some behind the boot.

Drums look like they were turned, if not they look clean, no score marks.

The differential between the front and rear shoe vs the plate is natural, as the assembly moves left and right. (As VZ pointed out)

The difference is made up when you adjust the shoes. Don't overthink this 

Put it back together, adjust the shoes through the back plate before you install the axles.

Fill the diff, start motor, put in drive with brake, let it go and idle, allow oil to flow out to the bearings, top off oil.

Put your wheels on and  burn rubber if you have the desire.

Don't forget, you need to deliberately come to a full stop in reverse for the brakes to auto adjust the gap out of your shoes relative to the drums.

[Spool]

Johnny. Thank you so much for the elaborate response, man. It really helps.

I gotta say though, I'm having a hard time believing that after taking everything apart the answer is to just put it back together slightly differently to stop this incessant squeaking and heat problem. This mechanic had three shots at this- how could he be so terribly wrong with the same parts? Mind you, each time I got it back, everything's fine for 10-15 miles, then it starts to progressively get worse and worse. Would this not insinuate a faulty part?
(Not to forget, the last time I drove, it was so bad, I felt a thumping under my foot while braking- leaving me to believe the brake was shaking the wheel, then the axel, then the diff, then the drive shaft, and finally the trans underneath me. All of this from him not adjusting the shoes correctly?)

I've stripped everything to the backing plate except the cylinder considering I've come this far and I've just been researching this all day long.
Backing plate looks good to me - maybe a bit of rust but other than that, it seems fine... Maybe my lands are uneven like Jon had mentioned on page 1 of this thread?

Here's where I'm at though... At this point, why try the same thing a 4th time instead of just upgrading to new parts now if I can upgrade the shoes to heavy-duty with a new kit for both sides for under $200? I'd still have half my budget left over.
Plus, in spirit of restoring the truck, I've now learned drum brakes and can say that the rear brakes are 'spotless.' No?

I'll attach pictures again here: Drivers side first.