75 K10 Clutch bell crank arm attachment?

[we3yankee]

Hello all.
My heap (which  I love dearly) that is always in a minor state of disrepair, has a broken part in the clutch mechanisms.

What I am looking for (which my Chilton's manuals does not diagram) is an exploded view of how the (what I believe to be ) "the clutch bell crank arm" (#13 in the diagram link below) connects to the bell housing.

Last week the pedal went to the floor and never returned. After poking around today it appears the attachment bolt (possible #8 in below link) has sheered off at the entry point in to the bell housing, but I can not find a good exploded diagram of the full linkage - pedal to arm to attachment to the housing to be sure.

I am unsure if bolt #8 is in side the cab which connects the clutch pedal arm inside, or is the suspected bolt that goes through the center of #13 to the bell housing.

Any suggestions on where to find a full diagram?

For reference follow the provided link:
www. competitor.com/icatalog/cc/0126.asp

And just for fun here she is:

i6.photobucket.com/albums...3/Heap.jpg


Herb/We3

Edited by: we3yankee at: 2/18/07 3:23 pm

[Blazin]

#8 in the picture does not go into the bellhousing. #8 goes through the clutch and brake pedal arms to hang them inside the cab under the dash.
#13 is attached to the bell via a ball pivot that threads into the bell housing, or motor block that goes into the socket at the end of #13 closest to the bell housing. The other end has a stud that sticks out of #13 that goes through a bracket on the frame. I have seen the ball that threads into the bell housing break off before.  

Edited by: Blazin at: 2/18/07 11:42 am

[Lt.Del]

The part #13 should just sit on a pivot ball.  I have never had a manual tranny chevy, but my old Ford Mootangs, the pivot ball just screwed into the side of the block.  It is only about an inch long.  The #13 clutch bar just slipped on it so the clutch pedal can swivel back and forth. If that puppy is broken or something, she wont return.  It looks like on chevys, it is up in your dash.

check your return spring.

Look at your clutch fork.  Will it go forward and back?  If not, it may be your throwout bearing (release bearing on chevy) slipped off of the fork.   OR, check out your clutch fork ball stud.  If this messes up, your clutch fork will not move back to the disengage position. It will make your fork to become out of position.

If you live near a salvage yard, go out in there and find one and take it apart and learn how it works.  I do that all the time and enjoy it on a nice day.  If your clutch has been on there a while, you might as well take yours apart and replace the pressure plate, bearing, disk, etc..You will then see where the problem is and replace it.

SgtDel
aka "Andy"

www.delbridge.net

1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4

Edited by: SgtDel  at: 2/18/07 11:53 am

[we3yankee]

Hey thanks a million guys.
Looks like I have some work ahead of me (or my mechanic..)
It is the bolt that goes thru #13 in to the trany/block area.

*sigh*

It snapped, about three threads in to the attachment hole. So if the broken bolt gods are smiling on me, I may be able to get the penetrating oil and the easy out to get it free.

The other option is this fall i was going to the engine shop for a total rebuild, I was contemplating a tranny swap.

Presently it has the 4 speed(forget the number but with the ULTRA low gear 1str) and the NP205 transfer case.

I have debating on a trans swap to a 5 speed with an overdrive. She sees back/dirt/fire roads, but hardly ever any use of the 4 low.

But again, thanks for the input. Just have to wait for the warmer weather and go get the tools.


We3.  

[we3yankee]

. darn wrong place .

[Blazin]

No bolt goes through # 13. There is a ball pivot that threads into the bell hopusing. # 13 slips over it, and has a stud the is on a pivot at the end near the frame. It goes through a braket that is rivited to the frame with a nut to hold it in place.