Air Conditioning?

[CHEVROLET77]

I am new to the forum and just recently bought a 1977 chevrolet K/10 with heating only.  I want to put a/c in it.  How hard would this be to do and what all would I need to get?  This would be a great help, especially for the Arizona summers.  I can get pictures if needed...  Thank You

[Lt.Del]

If i lived in Arizona, I definately would not buy a vechicle without a/c.

It is quite a task to put a/c in a non a/c vehicle. The best thing to do is go the wrecking yard and find a truck that has a/c and start robbing parts off of it and studying it.   You will have extensive work putting the evaporator/drier/orifice in ( I would get new ones) as well as the lines, compressor/brackets etc.  High pressure valve and low pressure valve. You will need the dash control panel w/ a/c.  You will need to run the wires from the dash to the compressor.  (not sure if there are cables to control the door flaps for a/c--if so, you'll have to run cables from controls to door flaps ) Then you have the condensor (new one) to put in front of the radiator.  For a truck that didnt have all these parts, good luck.   Most parts of an a/c unit should not be reused, especially the drier--once exposed to the outside air, it is worthless.  

It may be simpler to get an aftermarket bolt in ac unit.

SgtDel
aka "Andy"

www.delbridge.net

1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4

Edited by: SgtDel  at: 2/11/07 1:55 am

[DixieOffroad87]

my advice would be to get a vintage air setup or something similar to that. that way you get everything in one shot and its all new stuff. and they are not very difficult to install.

[VileZambonie]

Buy a junker that has A/C and it's an easy swap for the most part and you could easily have it all in in a weekend. The only thing you will need access to is an A/C system reclaimer and a vacuum pump.  

[shaved80]

who needs a/c in arizona?!

[CHEVROLET77]

Thank You everyone, I will probably hit up a junk yard and see exactly what it is I need to get and do and go from there.

[Lt.Del]

Another thing i neglected to mention, you will have to wire, not only the compressor, the dash control, but also the low pressure cut off switch on the drier.  Usually these wires are green.  That could possibly be wired in a direct current to the compressor, because when the pressure inside the system gets too low, the switch activates and breaks the circuit so the compressor will not run when low refrigerant.

SgtDel
aka "Andy"

www.delbridge.net

1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4

Edited by: SgtDel  at: 2/11/07 8:18 pm

[CHEVROLET77]

Thanks for the info!

[73customC10]

hey hey i just took out my ac you can have all the parts i dient throw away. i have the blower fan and the big plastic piece on the fire wall. out of 73 pickup i will send pics asap

[CHEVROLET77]

That would be awesome if you could send me those, would you want me to pay for shipping?  Thank You Everyone

[73customC10]

yeah how soon do u need it i can find out shipping wieght this weekened whats your zip

[CHEVROLET77]

im in no hurry, but my zip is 85213 Thanks

[76CrewCab4x4]

I did this to my 76 Crew Cab 4x4.  I purchased it in 1988.  It came with an ARA aftermaket A/C unit.  Living in Mesa, AZ., it never did cool enough.  I tinted the windows, put a high capacity air blower and it still did not work how a factoryA/C unit works.  The biggest problem was the evaporator is mounted inside the cab in the ducting which restricted the volume of air passing through the vents.  I also noted the evaporator was smaller than a OEM where the evaporator exist in a plastic housing under the hood at the firewall.  I picked up all the plastic housing, vents, duct work and all other components at a salvage yard back in 1998.  ONE MAJOR THING TO BE AWARE OF!  The firewall cut outs are different on a A/C factory equipment truck vs. a non-factory A/C equipped truck.  I took accurate measurements of all the cut outs on the truck at the salvage yard.  I then made the necessary cut outs and covered over the holes that should not be there.  I did have to us some new parts and I stayed with the R-12 Refrigerent.  I've heard that it is better than the newer Refrigerent.  Don't know if it's true or not but that's what I did.  Everything came out slick.  I'm pleased with the results.  I get much more air moving through the system and it is cooler too.  A well working A/C unit in Mesa is a must to survive the Summers and then some. Good Luck!

76CrewCab4x4
aka "Tom"

[Lt.Del]

R-12 is indeed  better, just very expensive if you can find the R12.  R 134a is the standard now, but doesnt cool like the old stuff.  

The conversion is pretty simple.  Just get the system cleared of the old refrigerant using the appropriate equipment.  The adapter screws onto the drier to allow use of the R134a.  

SgtDel
aka "Andy"

www.delbridge.net

1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4