81 Chev Questions. Newb-ish

[BigTree]

Hey there guys.  I am looking for some answers and advice please.   First off the truck in question is an 81 Chev half ton, its list looks something like this:
-rebuilt 454
-Turbo 400 w/ shift kit
-Corporate 14 in the rear
-Corporate 10 in the front
-6-7' Suspension lift and 2.5' body lift

First off.  The pitman arm and drag link have some play.  Would it be wise to get a drop pitman arm or would a standard replacement be fine?






Next question.  The previous owner made up his own custom front leaf spring hangers.  Do they look safe in your opinion?


3. The driveshaft.  Currently it has a half ton driveshaft in it, which is just about too short with the lift.  That and the u-joint in the rear diff doesn't quite fit properly.  I have heard that people got the 1 ton driveshaft shortened a few inches and it apparently works.  Would this be a wise idea or do I have any other options?  I would probably need to measure the length I need as well...

4. Steering box Linkage.  I am not sure but the flange looks pretty bent out of shape...would you consider this a bad thing?



Really sorry for the HUGE post and lots of pictures guys but I really hope you can help me out.  Thanks again.

Trevor

[BILTUP]

I don't see any big problems.  The homemade spring shackles should be abit longer as it looks like the spring has touched the frame a few times (common problem).  The driveshafts should be okay but getting the proper length never hurts.  The rear draglink end (better off to replace them both) looks to need a replacement pretty bad.  You could get a dropped pitman arm but they are pricey, you should be fine without it.

After looking alittle closer the rear drag link end looks to be missing the rubber cover, this is why i thought it was in such bad shape.  If there is play in the draglink ends, replace them both.

What size TSL's are you running?  I have 38.5x16-15's comming for mine.

[Blazin]

With that much lift and no drop arm it must not turn very well to the right. Or if its been adjusted out with the drag link it must not have a very sharp turning radius either way.
 The bolts look like they are not centered in the bushings on the rear spring shackle. Are the bushings shot?
 As far as the rear shaft goes when you extend it all the way and its to short it could pull the slip yoke apart. As far as the u joint not fitting well in order to run a half ton joint in the drive shaft and a 14 bolt rear you need a crossover joint. Its bigger across and bigger caps on one side. As far as cutting down a one ton shaft I have never heard that. I have always just got a new shaft made to fit. A new shaft will have all new yokes etc. so no worry about loose cap holes etc.

[BigTree]

First and foremost let me say thank you guys soo much for the super quick replies.  I will check out the bushings in the custom spring hangers today. 

I will get a good pic of the driveshaft today as well but I am pretty sure it is too short.


Thanks a ton again guys.

Trevor

[Blazin]

The bushings are in the spring and the frame mount.

[BILTUP]

He has a raised steering arm, you can see it in the pics.  His steering cannot be any worse than mine.

How does your front end ride, looks like it would be pretty rough with that many leafs up there.

[VileZambonie]

If you aren't having any problem with turning radius don't bother with a drop drag link or pitman arm.

The rag joint coupler should have an interlock incase the joint fails so you don't totally lose steering.

[Toolmaster]

I took this from Superlifts  site http://www.superlift.com/Catalog.asp?P=K420&V=17

1977½-91 models require clearancing (machining) of the front driveshaft CV cluster to prevent binding. If vehicle has single exhaust, the cross-over pipe requires modification to clear front driveshaft.
Optional extended length brake hoses recommended.
If rear shocks' upper mounting studs cannot be reused, order (1) #60460 - pair shock studs.
Brake line / hose relocating hardware included in kit box.

As for the drive shaft, see tom woods  http://www.4xshaft.com/techinfo.html
Use the formula and and have on your 3/4 ton d/s cut to fit.
Check the yokes also for fit (Diffs).

The previous owner made up his own custom front leaf spring hangers.  Do they look safe in your opinion?

I would replace the bushings and the shackle's. Remember your not working with a new truck, bushings wear out, bolts rust and break......
Go ahead and replace,(check) the rear bushings and shackles while your at it.

Pick up some PB Blaster http://www.pbblaster.com/ and start spraying things down a few days before removing bolts and give the steering links a whack with the ball end of a ballpeen hammer.

If you replace the shackles, do so before fitting the d/shaft.

  I am not sure but the flange looks pretty bent out of shape...would you consider this a bad thing?

 Ask your self ! Would you trust your life with it ?
 Broken steering can cause a bad day on the road or trail.
I have never broken a rag joint on the road, but I broke a few on the trail and it's allways in a bad spot. (can make it fun getting home without a spare)

Other notes-
Spray those u-bolts down (F & R) and make sure they are tight. 
Not sure if you have blocks on the rear or not. If so keep a good check on those, Ive seen them fail (spit out) on the trail.

[BigTree]

Holy crap.  Thanks a TON for all the recent activity here.  My stupid computer and I got in a huge fight and it won until today, so I can get into windows successfully now;)
Anyways on with the DS pic

I would replace the bushings and the shackle's. Remember your not working with a new truck, bushings wear out, bolts rust and break......
Go ahead and replace,(check) the rear bushings and shackles while your at it.

What should I replace said rear shackles and bushings with?  Just get some 1/2 plate and try to find some bushings or is there parts I can buy somewhere to make this task easier?


Truck has extended brake hoses and such already. 


So both ends of the drag link are shot.  I will be replacing those next week along with the LF balljoints and whatever else it needs.  Today I took apart the RH side and am replacing both ball-joints, Axle U-joint, spindle bearing kit, and repacking the wheel bearings.

P.S. New gas tanks and straps are on order.

Thank you soo much again.  You guys are incredible.

[CruzinHigh]

Let us know when you're ready to do the gas tanks, I just removed mine and reworked everything so I can give you a few tips if you need.   

[BigTree]

Should be here Tuesday morning so Tuesday night I will be doing the one for sure.

Currently the truck only has the one tank installed for some reason.

[Blazin]

Any spring shop or parts store will have the bushings.