a few different problems... need some help

[mikeith]

i have a few issues and questions with the truck that are starting to get to me and i figured instead of making multiple topics i'll just make one and get em all outa the way...

1: i just had a 700r4 installed and when in i shift into drive i have to literally jerk it into drive for it to drive for it to engage... like sometimes i have to put it back in nuetral and smack the lever down again fo it to engage

2: the truck has to be warmed up quite a bit or it has a bad miss and when its cold i have to keep the rpms at least above 2-2500 rpms or it will die and alot of times warming it up it backfires while you are steadily on the throttle keeping the rpms up (is this detination)

3: sometimes the tranny makes a noise and vibration when you are accelerating semi- agressively  like it is binding up... would a bad tq converter caus this or would the hydrolics possibly be off?... and fluid levels are perfect.

4: i am wanting to do away with the a/c completely but if i take the acumulator assembly and all the junk off the firewall will my heater still work? i dont need the a/c but i have to drive it one more winter and i would like to have a heater

5: going back to question 2 i think that a big part of my problem is a bad carb... and i always hear about how much of a pain in the holly carbs are so i was thinking about switching to a edelbrock and possibly getting new heads and a bigger cam since the cam i have is pretty mild.... are the edelbrock top end kits worth the money or should i put some kinda custom setup together... and are the edelbrock kits a roller setup because the setup i have now is a roller setup.... i want to get around 400hp and still be driveable as inexpensively as possible

sorry i know that each question has its own section but i figured since i was puttin em all together this is where i should do it

[VileZambonie]

1) check and adjust the linkage.

2) Not detonation. Sounds like you have a vacuum leak and a lean misfire.

3) Check your U-joints and driveshaft phasing. If it checks out try putting a few hose clamps on the driveshaft to see if the vibration changes.

4) You will need to leave the evaporator case in place in order to have the heater function correctly. Personally I would keep the AC unless you are just dragging it.

5) sounds like a complete engine rebuild would better suit your 400HP goal.

[mikeith]

1) check and adjust the linkage.
will do
2) Not detonation. Sounds like you have a vacuum leak and a lean misfire.
i thought it may be running lean
3) Check your U-joints and driveshaft phasing. If it checks out try putting a few hose clamps on the driveshaft to see if the vibration changes.
whats phasing? the driveshaft was recently reshafted from when the previous guy screwed up, and both u joints are new
4) You will need to leave the evaporator case in place in order to have the heater function correctly. Personally I would keep the AC unless you are just dragging it.  the a/c doesnt work and after winter its getting rebuilt into a show truck, i just wanted to see what all i can go ahead and remove and get outa the way

5) sounds like a complete engine rebuild would better suit your 400HP goal.
i was affraid of that...

[Lt.Del]

You are in texas?  I'd leave that A/C on.  Even if it doesn't work right now, it is easier to replace a compressor or condensor or evaporator or pressure switch, or whatever, than to start from scratch one day.  A/C trucks are worth so much more if they have a/c, especially in the south.  If you remove it, i hope you never intend to resell the truck, you won't get nearly as much for it.

Instead, for a show truck, dress it up w/ a chrome compressor and braided lines and such. Even if it doesnt work right now, it'll still look good.

[mikeith]

i see where you are coming from but i'm going for a very strait to the point bare showtruck... nothing under the hood but a smooth firewall and nothing on the interior other than 2 gauges, 2 seats, steering wheel, smooth dash and a classy center console. the window and air ride switches will be hidden aswell

[Captkaos]

You can hide AC also.  I couldn't put that kind of money in a truck an then not enjoy it.  And I know it is hot in Texax.   Use a Vintage system, it can be mounted completely inside with just a junction of 4 ports coming out.

[mikeith]

not a bad idea... you have pics of one? their website just shows the kit by itself

[Captkaos]

Here is the sure fit system installed in Classic Trucks project, it uses the factory HEATER controls, no A/C controls  (whole article here:http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0612cl_air_conditioning_install/index.html )


You would have to go a different route if you really wanted them hidden.  This is one of their kits with a bulkhead plate....


Here is another one:

Talk to Jason about it.  I KNOW the hardtop blazer he did had a smooth firewall and ran AC...

[78BBSTEPSIDE]

I would suggest contacting some of the various street rod suppliers as there are numerous options out there from many manufacturers. The systems can be installed with very little visibility if done correctly. I put a system in my 36 Ford three window and was real slick. You get what you pay for with this type of project and product. Good Luck