383 Stroker Questions

[Morrow]

Hey guys got some questions for ya.  Im going to be purchasing my buddys 350 TBI from his '88 Sierra, doesn't need a rebuild but I plan on doing one anyways.  Since im going to have the thing dissassembled, was thinking about swapping it to a 383. The needs for my '85 K10 (which the 350/383 is going into) is mainly for offroading (nothing CRAZY), camping, and winter so I don't want it to be insane on gas, but i want the extra bit of ompf a 383 offers.  I was thinking of buying a stroker kit from a place like summit which includes flexplate, har. balancer, pistons, crank, rods, rings, and also getting a 350 rebuild kit which gives me all my gaskets.  If im going to be mudding this engine up all the time offroading, is the 383 a good idea as i dont want my newly replaced rotating assembly getting damaged as funds is a bit of an issue, or should i just stick with the 350 (i wont be abusing it, but just the dirt/water issues)?  Also wondering if the stock cam, heads, lifters, rockers, from the 350 can still be used with my new bored out block and rotating assembly for a 383?  Obviously aftermarket would be more power, but i wont be able to afford the heads right now, cam i can probably do.  Im not looking at building a 500hp racecar engine, but in the 300-400 range with decent gas mileage.  Any suggestions on what do buy (summit, etc) and should i get the rebuild kit or just buy individual gaskets?  Any do's and dont's or general heads up before i buy anything? Any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks guys.

[VileZambonie]

1st mud and dirt will do the same thing to a 350 that it will do to a 383 so that will make no difference but since you seem to be on a budget and can't afford to build the upper end of the engine i would suggest staying away from the 383 and just do your mild overhaul

[Lt.Del]

But, man, you would have so much fun from a 383. Torque!  http://www.delbridge.net/install

[jays2w87]

Just a thought, 383's typically run warmer, Unless you have a sweet cooling set up??
I know I've been stuck in a few swap holes and have had to shut down and cool off and I didnt have a 383. My buddy had one in his 71 Camaro. If he was crusin he was okay . If he beat it then it would spike up a little. 
Keep in mind I have never had one, just things I have heard

[Lt.Del]

My 383 doesnt know what heat is.  Of course I have a 4 core radiator and a hivolume water pump, but that temp guage doesn't move,no matter how hard i am pushing it.   If you are using one guy's engine as an example and say all 383's run hot, man, I can say 350's run hot, or 250 sixes run hot.  Just because one guy in the neighborhood is a criminal doesn't mean the neighborhood is full of crime.

[1976Scottsdale]

northernautoparts.com.  Get their basic 350 kit with clevite bearings, a bouble roller timing set, HVoil pump... don't bother with the special driveshaft, flat tops, and moly rings.  Then step up to the 420/443 lift cam.  It will do fine.  Idid this with my 78 K-10 engine.  53cc heads, that kit, port/polish, and my own blueprint job to 0.001" to 0.0015" on cylinder, rod bearings, main bearings, etc and that thing would twist the frame... a lot, and fly down the road and through the mud... and hold 98psi cold oil press, 75 hot, at idle.  It would happily bury the gauge when you were driving it.  It never washed bearings either.  Avoid the 53cc heads unless you can afford 101octane race fuel... just a little personal experience.

[VileZambonie]

northernautoparts.com.  Get their basic 350 kit with clevite bearings, a bouble roller timing set, HVoil pump... don't bother with the special driveshaft, flat tops, and moly rings.  Then step up to the 420/443 lift cam.  It will do fine.  Idid this with my 78 K-10 engine.  53cc heads, that kit, port/polish, and my own blueprint job to 0.001" to 0.0015" on cylinder, rod bearings, main bearings, etc and that thing would twist the frame... a lot, and fly down the road and through the mud... and hold 98psi cold oil press, 75 hot, at idle.  It would happily bury the gauge when you were driving it.  It never washed bearings either.  Avoid the 53cc heads unless you can afford 101octane race fuel... just a little personal experience.

Dude where did you come from? Put in a high volume oil pump but don't bother with the $5.99 upgrade to a steel drive shaft. Yeah that's GREAT advice!  Why would anyone want a high volume oil pump unless you upgraded your oiling system #1 but #2 not bother putting in a steel sleeved drive shaft? That's retarded!  Oh and 53 cc heads?? lol c'mon man

[1977_ChevyMan]

I'm buildint a 383 for my 77 chevy stepside. I got the SCAT kit from jegs that comes with flex plate and balancer for $816. The only thing you need is cam bearings and oil pump. I'm running 64 cc double hump cast heads, and a 216 with a 480 lift cam non roller and it should push around 400 hp when I'm done.

it was the cheapest I could find that comes with almost everything. the crank is better than a stock crank and comes with 4340 rods. not the stock ones.

[sav_x69]

i just built a scat 383 with vortec heads 480 280 cam she pumps thats for sure and it dosent heat up. 3 core rad. just give er

[1976Scottsdale]

northernautoparts.com.  Get their basic 350 kit with clevite bearings, a bouble roller timing set, HVoil pump... don't bother with the special driveshaft, flat tops, and moly rings.  Then step up to the 420/443 lift cam.  It will do fine.  Idid this with my 78 K-10 engine.  53cc heads, that kit, port/polish, and my own blueprint job to 0.001" to 0.0015" on cylinder, rod bearings, main bearings, etc and that thing would twist the frame... a lot, and fly down the road and through the mud... and hold 98psi cold oil press, 75 hot, at idle.  It would happily bury the gauge when you were driving it.  It never washed bearings either.  Avoid the 53cc heads unless you can afford 101octane race fuel... just a little personal experience.

Dude where did you come from? Put in a high volume oil pump but don't bother with the $5.99 upgrade to a steel drive shaft. Yeah that's GREAT advice!  Why would anyone want a high volume oil pump unless you upgraded your oiling system #1 but #2 not bother putting in a steel sleeved drive shaft? That's retarded!  Oh and 53 cc heads?? lol c'mon man

Did not see the need of the special shaft since I have yet to have one break so far, granted that may simply be luck.  Also did not care for the stupid shaft falling out when I tried to use one.  Guess if I use them I need to put the pump on without the motor being upside down.  As far as the heads, they were a set of rebuilt 305 heads that I already had.  I blew up my 327 and had just enough money to rebuild the shortblock.  In retrospect, however, if you are rebuilding on limited funds, get all of the safety measures you can for your engine, thus, I retract my previous statement and highly recommend that you buy the pinned steel sleeve shaft.  As far as upgrading the oiling system, the only thing I do is massage all the clearances to where I want them to be and they seem to come out alright, they admittedly take more time to break in as they are tight enough that if you hotrod it right off, there is no room for metal to expand and things spin or stick.

[VileZambonie]

Don't take offense to that post I think I was cocked =P lol

[1976Scottsdale]

Sorry if I seemed upset in my previous post there, just emphatically expressing my dislike for those pinned steel shafts.  They are a very good idea to have, but being 6'8" tall, having one fall to the floor is a pain when ur workin standing up all day.  If you should use one, I have found that a glob of Lucas assembly lube will hold the shaft in for just long enough to button up the bottom end and get the pan on.  As far as the wiring on the trucks, they are usually pretty good, I was mad about mine messing up... just got that cluster out and found a bare spot that was grounding on the printed circuit.