relocating battery to the bed.

[team39763]

I'm relocating the battery to the bed, but I have a few questions about the cables/grounds.  Do I still need to connect the battery ground cable to the engine block?  Can I run my positive cable within 3 inches of my fuel line(metal)?  What gauge of wire is acceptable?  I'm planning to just use whatever I find at O'Reilly and make a hold-down.  Do I need a box?...I'm sure I can make one myself.

[VileZambonie]

Your battery needs to be secured in a vibration free box. What type of battery are you using? You can run the cabling near anything that isn't moving or a heat source just make sure you use insulated clamps to secure it to the frame. Also run a ground wire from the engine block to the frame and from the frame to the body. You can bolt your negative to the frame however you will need to add some auxiliary ground straps. If you have more than .3v drop on the negative side of the circuit you will have to run the cable back up to the engine block. Ideally that is best anyway.

[team39763]

I have an optima red top.

[team39763]

Why the vibration free box?  Can I away with just the cheap plastic boxes from summit or autozone?  Could I bolt it down good and use rubber to dampen some of the vibrations.  Also, should I bolt it further back like by the wheel tubs or right behind the cab?

[okuma]

  Also, should I bolt it further back like by the wheel tubs or right behind the cab?

YOU can mount the battery anywhere you may want it or where-ever it's more easily axcesible to you--- matter of taste.   for the wiring keep the same as the original gauge wire as original under the hood.

[VileZambonie]

If you are running a good battery like the optima, vibration won't hurt it nearly as much however especially in the back of a pick up bouncing around with the suspension is very bad for the battery especially a conventional battery. Just make sure it's mounted securely. Here's what Optima recommends for their battery installation:

 

Ensure that the battery is properly secured in the vehicle or equipment to prevent movement and vibration. Do not over tighten the hold down bracket as this can damage the plastic case.
Connect high amperage accessories such as a winch to the top terminals only. Do NOT use the side terminals.
Replace any cables and connectors that have corrosion, rust, or other damage.
Do not install batteries in a non-ventilated or sealed compartment.
Do not lift or handle the batteries by the terminals.
Do not over tighten terminal bolts, the following values are recommended: SAE automotive terminal: 6-8 nm. Side terminal (3/8" nut): 8 nm.Threaded stud terminal:14-20 nm.

[HAULIN IT]

Team member, Are you asking for opinions or as per NHRA/IHRA sanction rules? If you are referring to the rules. No you do not need a box. The battery must be held firmly in place by at least (2) 3/8 bolts/studs, no open J hooks. If the battery is relocated, the electrical system must include a cut-off switch clearly marked on-off on the back of the vehicle. I realize the rules have to be generalized, but the switch seems like nonsense on our trucks to me. If something goes wrong having the battery in/under the bed, out in the open is far easier to get to & safer than under the hood. Also you can run a new Saturn, ect. with the battery in the trunk without a switch because it was not relocated. Go figure. I'm on the fence if it is really worth moving if you look at it this way. Batteries are getting lighter, 12-14' of 00 or 01 cable is heavy, add the switch & In my opinion, you should use a Ford type solenoid so the big cable is only live while cranking, 10 gauge charging wire from the alt., several good quality cable ends & you know whatever you make for a hold down/tray is likely going to weigh more than the factory ones, yes you move some weight from the front to the back, but is it really worth it? Charging is easier in the back if your playing that game. Good Luck with the project, Lorne

[team39763]

My whole reason for relocating the battery was to lighten up the nose of the truck.  I was wanting to know about the box from both NHRA/IHRA standpoint and in general.  You made some good points Lorne.  I think I'm gonna weigh everything and see what it'll come out to.  These optima batteries are heavy, I hate moving mine.  I think if I do relocate it, I'll put it as far back as I can.
Thanks for that info Vile.  I don't think vibration will be too much of a problem since the truck won't be driven very much.  Longest trip will be 1/4mile or to the gas station 1/2mile away. 
I think if I do relocate it, I'll put it as far back as I can.

[hogwild]

i moved mine to the very rear pass side behind wheel well, plastic rv box , got welding cable 00 i think, ground to frame  , then frame to motor.  long pos from batery to front straped to frame. works real good, the solinoid idea is a good one i may now change mine, might save a fire.i also removed fuel tanks and put a plastic one in the bed on the oposite side , she hooks hard now

[RSBAD454]

I relocated mine to the bed right behind the cab with a NHRA approve Moroso battery box...I ran 1/0 cable for the positive and some big welding cable for the ground, from the battery to frame, then from there to the passenger head, then jumpered to drivers head. I wanted to make sure I had a clean ground path for spark and my Billet HEI.

[Redneckchevy]

Whats the point of this mod??? Seen it done alot...Got no clue on why tho

[RSBAD454]

it's called move a little weight from the front to the rear...... I put my coolant recovery tank in the area where the battery use to be anyways.

[HAULIN IT]

Team, I'm not saying you shouldn't move it, In fact I may very well move mine someday. I agree with you, If your going to move it, put it as far back as possible. I also have a Optima Red Top, I did some measuring a while back, it looked like it would fit under the bed nicely, on it's side, behind the spring hanger. I know they advertise it is ok to mount them anyway, anybody have personal experience with doing this? I dropped the body (bedsides) on my truck which will help hide it. I'm not sure if you would see it hanging out from the side on a regular truck or not. I personally don't like "things in the bed". I guess my reason for procrastinating on it is: Your going to be adding about 35-40lbs. of total weight to the truck (mostly in the back,which is good) but there is additional connections,parts to fail,length of wire to rub,ect. Is it worth it? We all want to get the most out of our vehicle if we're going to the track, but in bracket racing it means nothing. It probably is if you mount it behind the axle. 40 or so lbs. of battery off of in front of the front wheels & aprox. 70+ moved to mostly behind the axle to help traction. 70lbs of ballast on some vehicles can make all the difference in the world, to others not so much. Can you run it a couple times & then move it to verify the worth? Talk to you later, Lorne   

[FlatBroke]

I plan on moving mine just to clean up the engine bay a little bit, plus I no longer have inner fender wells.

Good luck on your project.

[team39763]

Yeah, I know what you mean Lorne.  I'm weighing the pros and cons right now.  I'm not really into bracket racing yet, I'm just trying to get a respectable time out of this truck.  Is there a such thing as a lightweight battery?  Like you said, it may not even be worth it to get into all that.  I'll run it like it is and see if I still need to bother with relocation.
  I don't have inner fenders either.  I like being able to slide in and out through there to get stuff done....especially changing sparkplugs and tightening header bolts.