Starter/Battery/Charging Issues

[VeeTwin60]

On Saturday morning, my truck seemed to start fine when I went to work.  I stopped to get some breakfast, but when I came out and tried to start my truck, it clicked.  I figured the battery finally gave out.  While I was waiting on assistance, about 5 minutes later, I was able to start it (turned over strong).  Throughout the day - lunchtime, time to go home - it worked just fine.  However, on my way home, I noticed my lights were dim and then things like turn signals stopped working.

It wouldn't fire again.

So, the next morning, I jumped it off and drove to Auto Zone to see if they could diagnose my issues.  It turned out that my battery was gone, AND my starter.  Neither passed the test.  So, I changed both.  That was Sunday, and it has driven great since then... until tonight (Wednesday).  Coming home from work, noticed my lights dimming and turn signals being sluggish.  I got home fine, but it won't start again... just clicking.

'86 C/10 w/350 cu.in.

Thanks

[VileZambonie]

Don't EVER bring your vehicles to autozone for any diagnostics. Sounds like your charging system isn't working correctly which means you probably replaced your battery and starter for nothing unfortunately. Get a voltmeter and see what your battery voltage is once you jump start it.

[Redneckchevy]

O dont get me started with autozone....Bought a battery...Battery was bad...they said it was good...I was mad...Next day i went in there with a cell tester and a battery tester...I showed them 6 out of 8 cells wear bad..and the battery was only putting out 5 volts when put on a load....And thats after....After there big fancy tester showed it was good..and there mandatory one hour on charge....Other story...Before the battery.....Went to Exchange my alternator..cause the bearings went and it was squiling like a pig....Said it was working nothing they could do...That the bearings have to break in....Bull..So after fighting with the manager i got my way....Point of all this is...Autozone just wants ur money.....Sure...The test is Free...But how do u no that they will tell u the truth.......No pun intended the guy that works at autozone..

[choptop]

If you still have the factory style cables, check the ends closely. I have had many corrode up under the end ,and when you hit the switch to start, it clicks,and everything goes out. Wiggle the cable a bit, and it will doe it again/ The main charging cable from the alternator is sometimes tied in at the same point as the cable end to the battery. What you are describing sounds like this is where the problem is. It will not only click like you are saying, but the alternator will not charge the battery like it is supposed to. The goons at autozone only know what their machine says. They check it at the battery and not the alternator.If you put your meter across the battery,and try to turn the engine over, the voltage will tell you where to start/ If the voltage doesn't drop drastically, and everything goes out, then you most likely have a bad battery cable. Check the negative cable as well.

[VeeTwin60]

The battery voltage is around 11.50 VDC whether the engine is running or not.  I even had my wife increase the RPM's to about 2000 and the voltage never changes.

Alternator?

[VileZambonie]

Most likely!

[VeeTwin60]

Thanks for the replies.

[Dragon]

Did Autozone check it with a Handheld unit, or did they have a cart that they wheeled out??  I used to use a HandHeld whenever I checked a Customer's Car/Truck(Nope not Autozone), and the way the handheld worked, was it would test the battery First, then Starter, and then Alternator.... If you didn't know how to read it properly(Like most AZ and Other PartsStore Techs Today, due to lack of proper trainning), any one of those items would show up as being bad, even though it was another....

I do got to say though, if your Alt was bad, it could easily Fry both your Battery(Due to the Alt not properly charging it), and even fry your Starter or atleast the Solenoid(Due to the excessive cranking needed to turn the engine over).....

Also would agree that if you have your Stock Cables, it has been more than enough time to replace them(Especially if you are in an area that sees Severe Temp Changes), and yes they can also lead to problems with frying or excessively draining your electrical system....

[VeeTwin60]

No - I removed the starter and the battery, and they used the in-store tester at the end of the counter.

I took the alternator out, and ran it over to AutoZone (I know... I know... but who else at 9:00 pm??) and let them test it.  It passed.  Over, and over, and over again... it passed.

So, I came back home, re-installed it - still no charging voltage (unless 12.38 is normal )

[VileZambonie]

No 12.38 is not normal. What do you have at the B+ terminal on the back of the alternator? How about at the field wire?

[VeeTwin60]

Not sure where the "field wire" or "B+" terminal is.  I'm used to Harley stators/regulators for checking out a charging system... not an alternator.

[Lt.Del]

B+ is red positive battery cable---on the alternator, it is the red wire with a little nut holding it onto the back of the alt.

You should be getting over 14 volts when engine is running.   If not, and alternator checks out, it has to be in the connections. Check all of your wires and connectors.

As vile said, check the positive out put right at the atlternator, while grounding the voltmeter. The output at the alt should be nearly exactly as what the reading is at the battery. If there is a difference, it is in the cables/connections.