87 4x4 can i change an auto flywheel without pulling motor or trans?

[jpegb]

is there a way to change an automatic flywheel on 87 5.7 4x4 TH400 auto without pulling engine or trans/transfer case? has anyone ever snuck one in without a major hassle?

[VileZambonie]

I have a magic wand I'll sell ya that'll do it. 

Why do you need to change the flexplate? If it's your own truck and it's a few broken teeth you can weld on a few new teeth and shape em with your die grinder. There's one cheat. If the flexplate is cracked then you should be able to move the trans back far enough without actually dropping it to replace it. I just did one on an S-10 a few weeks ago without pulling the whole thing out.

[jpegb]

flywheel is cracked and this is an 87 1 ton 4x4 th400. i need to know if anyone with the same truck has gotten lucky and didnt have to sperate motor/trans i know now that it all has to come apart. thanks

[joesgarage71]

 I have done a flex plate R+R without taking the tranny completely out on 2WD trucks but a 4X4 is alittle different, You have the added weight of the transfur case. It can be done (where theres a will theres a way!) a good floor jack/tranny jack and a flat floor will be needed,(maybe some wood blocks of different sizes and thickness) and some help. Buy 4  8" 3/8 bolts to use for a guide/slider. Support the tranny/transfur, remove/unhook whatever is needed (driveshafts, crossmember, linkage, dipstick, ect...) remove 4 bellhousing bolts and install the long bolts then remove the other 2 bolts and carefully slide the tranny/transfur on those long bolts while your help mans the jack.  There might be a chance of the bellhousing hitting the floor/Hump so you'll have to lower the jack some.R+R the flex plate and reassemble.
 Please be safe and don't put yourself in any bad positions under the tranny/transfur case. If you have to lower the tranny/transfur very much make sure your fan don't contact the radiator.
 Steve
 

[VileZambonie]

You don't have to drop it all the way down. You have a lot more room than in the S10 was the point I was making and I just did one of them so Yes you can do it. Just disconnect the driveshafts, your linkage etc. You might want to drain the fluids if you're doing it on your back to avoid a potential mess that you'll have to roll around in

[autorepr]

I watched ( and helped a lil) a guy change a front tranny lip seal in a 70s Chevy 4x4 P.U. without pulling everything out at Silver Lake Sand Dunes. He did it in the front yard at the house he rented. He went up and got some 3/8ths inch all thread cut 6 lengths and threaded them in took everything loose and slid the trans and t. case back pryed out the seal, banged in the new one then bolted it all back together. It only lasted an hour before it started pucking again but he did change it "in the truck".

[Fordeatinz71]

to answer your question...yes, just do what Vile said, slide the tranny back and do it...to answer what you really meant...no.  it is physically impossible to get to all the bolts to remove the flexplate and to get it off with the engine/tranny still connected.  luck has nothing to do with it. 

good luck!

[jc1340]

 it is a big job no matter how you look at it . do it now or do it later ,..

[David Hall]

I've done this a few times. Sometimes it's easier not to go this route, but it can be done. With the starter, flexplate cover, torque converter bolts, drive shafts, wires and any linkage removed, install the longer transmission mounting bolts. Slide transmission and transfer back about 4", keeping the torque converter in the transmission pump. Remove bolts mounting the flexplate to the end of the crankshaft. At this time depending on the engine, you have access to the rear main seal. Install new flexplate and torque to specs. Install all removed parts.

[Igosplut]

I watched ( and helped a lil) a guy change a front tranny lip seal in a 70s Chevy 4x4 P.U. without pulling everything out at Silver Lake Sand Dunes. He did it in the front yard at the house he rented. He went up and got some 3/8ths inch all thread cut 6 lengths and threaded them in took everything loose and slid the trans and t. case back pryed out the seal, banged in the new one then bolted it all back together. It only lasted an hour before it started pucking again but he did change it "in the truck".

Good idea, but most of the time that the pump seal is leaking badly on an auto trans is because there's a problem with the pump and it's pushing out the pump bushing.

[blast]

Just did this on my truck.

Tranny and transfercase have to be pulled back a few inches.  I pulled them back and suspended them about 6 inches away from the engine, and that space was quite comfortable for taking the flexplate bolts out, and installing the new one.

It would be nice if the torque converter would slide back more than it does when disconnected from the flexplate, but it only goes back about 1/2 inch.    Not nearly enough room to remove the flexplate.

You could also leave the tranny and transfer case and pull the engine forward, but that's a whole 'nother ballgame, you'd have to disconnect exhaust and a slew of other things.  It's so much easier to move tranny back and leave engine where it's at.

Remember to put jack under engine to hold it up before the bellhousing bolts are removed, it will drop/tip down if you don't, and the jack helps to align the transmission and engine when sliding the tranny back onto the engine.  You can leave the transmission and transfer case together if you are able to move them safely.  They are heavy, I would guess 600 pounds, together.

The main thing is to be safe, don't go under any of the hanging components if you don't have to.  Use lots of jack stands, and lots of common sense.  Be careful!!!!!!

[Dragon]

These guys are telling you the Easy way to do it, so I would go with that.....  The pain in the Rear that I have done a few times, involves removing the starter, sliding your hand up with box/open end wrench, removing a bolt closest to the bottom, having another individual turn the crank with a Breaker Bar a few times, till you get all of te bolts out......  Did that with the 267 that My Father originally had in his 79 Monte, The 305 that eventually replaced it, and the 350 he had in his '76 C20.....  The C20 was by far the Easiest, as I had add-a-leafs in the front, that helped keep the truck at a Nice workable arms length for me.....

Again, it is WAY Easier doing it they way everone suggested, but it can be done on the Fly, especially in an Emergency Roadside Repair, where not alot of tools or time allows(I had to do the Monte on a Trip back from Cali, in the cold and rain the first time).....