Wire IDs & Carb Hose Question

[GoatBeard]

Not sure if this post should go here or somewhere else...  I'll try here, first.

On my '83 K5 it's time to figure out some stuff about the engine (305).  I think I did the interior rebuild to avoid this part, but it's time to move on and you guys know so much I'd see if I could get some help.  The more I think about it, it sure doesn't make much sense to do the interior before the engine...     Oh well, no turning back now!

On this particular engine the carb has been changed out to an Edelbrock and the valve covers have been changed out, but other than that, I think everything is stock (although the engine was rebuilt at some point before I got it).  It starts perfectly and runs perfectly; however, I think it needs some valve guide seals b/c EVERY TIME when you first start it the thing will smoke like all-get-out for about 5 seconds (huge embarassing puff of smoke).  I think it's burning the oil off that leaks by those valve guide seals, but when I'm driving it down the road, it doesn't smoke, at all.  Does that sound right?

So I've got some wires and a connector that aren't connected to anything and don't know how important they are, if at all?  Everything electrical seems to be working, all gauges, etc.. 

Here's the wires:

1.What does this connector connect to?  What's it for?





2.What does this wire strip/terminal (not sure what it's actually called) hook to?  What's it for?  I see no where for it to hook...   




3.On this carb, shouldn't there be a hose clamp holding that hose on (Marked with green)?   I think this could have killed me dead!!!!   



4.  And finally, just to double-check before I cut -- for me to install a inline gas filter, do I cut this hose (marked with green arrow) in half and install the filter where the arrow is pointing?

[Donut]

The puff of smoke sounds about right.

Your connectors???  Mine's a little to old to compare them to. 

The green arrows look like vacuum lines.  I would hope the fuel line wouldn't be laying on the manifold.

[GoatBeard]

I'm purt'neigh sure that's the gas line.   

I'm gettin' ready to take the intake manifold off and either paint it or put another one on it.  I figure I might as well since I've got to tear part of the top-end apart to get to those valve guide seals.  It should be fairly easy, or as easy as it can be while standing on a step ladder!  But I need to know about those hoses on the carb and the wires.  The transmission shifts real hard from 1st to 2nd and I thought those wires might have something to do with it?

I called one place and told them I wanted to replace the valve guide seals and they wanted me to bring the truck down to them to run a $75 test on it before they would do anything.  Heck, I think I can replace the things way cheaper than their test was going to cost.  If that's not the problem, I can figure something else out.  I just wanted to avoid doing that job myself -- but the thought of paying someone $60 an hour for anything, at all, makes me think I can figure out how to do it myself.

[TexasRed]

It may be a linkage problem on your tranny that's causing the hard shift. Or it may be the vacuum to the modulator if it's a th350c.

That green arrow in the same picture as the return spring points to a ported vacuum source on the carb. The fuel line is the one above and closer to the back of the engine bay of the choke. You don't really need a clamp on vacuum lines, unless you want them. As long as they fit kinda tight.

The fuel line is actually the thicker one in the 5th picture that's ziptied to your plug wires. So that would be the one you would cut to install an inline filter. I would actually not keep that ziptied to the plug wires, just by the by.

[zieg85]

The first picture looks like a knock sensor for the ESC as well as the third pic that goes to a 305 distributor.  Someone probably switched out the distributor to a non-ESC version.  I am sure if I am not correct someone will chime in...

[HAULIN IT]

Goat, I think it would be good to have a picture a little farther away...I believe Tex is right, but lets see one that shows more where the hoses are coming from & going to. You don't need clamps on the smaller vacuum hoses, just be sure they fit snug. I believe the electrical plugs are for the spark control that most likely has been converted to a regular HEI. You don't need to remove more than the valve covers, spark plugs & the valve springs to change the seals, just air up the cylinder or bring the piston up to TDC & push a rope in the spark plug hole. I personally don't like to see rubber fuel hose up on top of the engine...that's how I lost my first Chevy truck, well that & being young & dumb (careless). That truck looks like it needs a weekend to tidy up a few things (I call it de-dicking). I see a Blue wire nut & the Red wire that wants to get caught in your carb linkage & make for an interesting time! Have Fun, any other questions... just ask, Lorne 

[VileZambonie]

Everyone answered you correct. That connector is for the knock sensor and the 4 pin goes to the ESC distributor. And no that vacuum hose would not have killed you dead. 

As far as changine the valve seals like lorne said, put something in there with the piston at TDC or compressed air to prevent the valve from dropping. I personally use air with the piston at TDC and lock the crank from turning.

Use one of these

[gbskunk2006]

Replacing my valve guide seals is on my "To Do" list for next spring

Is there a "fitting" you can buy that threads into the sparkplug opening, then allowing you to attach your airhose?

Thx

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=6879.0

[zieg85]

My compression tester has the quick disconnect for the gauge, I hook the air hose to it.

[HAULIN IT]

Yes, you can buy such adapter from a tool supply truck or some parts of a compression tester or leak-down tester adapted may work. I made my mine...an old sparkplug with the porcelain broken out & a Two dollar air fitting brazed together. Lorne

[GoatBeard]

Well boys, to say that I want to crawl in a hole from embarrassment would be an understatement.  I thought a vacuum line was a gas line, that's about as bad as it gets.  But to make it a tad worse, I questioned Donut when he said it was a vacuum line -- sorry bud.   

I'm glad I'm not going to be killed dead!   

The transmission is a 700-R4.  It works great, just shifts real hard from 1st to 2nd.  Vile had posted a reply on another thread about a wire that worked part of the torque converter's function, I just thought that some of my wires might have been part of the tranny's problem.

I've heard-tell that you can borrow some type of tool required for the valve guide seal job at the parts stores.  Don't know if it's a spreader tool, or something like what Chris posted the picture of or maybe even the air adaptor...  I'm goin' to O'Rileys today to pick up a couple of parts and I'll ask 'em while I'm there and report back.  This might be a good topic for the Technical Pages here. 

"De-Dicking", that's a good one!  This truck had been sitting for 10 years, so pretty much all of the gaskets and hoses and such were rotten.  I guess about every fluid that could leak was leakin'.  It doesn't leak a drop anymore and I cleaned most of the dirt daubers & acorns from the engine.  Stuff like removing the ziptie from the spark plugs/fuel line I wouldn't have known to do, but when I think about it, it's a good idea!  Thanks for all the replies and insight!!!!

Sam

Here are a couple of more pictures, zoomed out a little.  If you guys see anything else that doesn't look "right", please let me know. 



There's one ground wire that's not hooked up (see picture), how important is that?  It was unhooked when I got the truck and it's not long enough to have been hooked to the frame.  I'm thinkin' it may have been hooked on the valve covers, but since I went with chrome I don't think that'll work anymore.  Should I just ground it to the frame?  Is there any reason it should remain unhooked?  Could this cause any problems?



Also is there supposed to be a clip holding the linkage on?

[ccz145a]

That ground wire needs to be hooked up. It is the only guarantee that the charging system is grounded. Mine is attached to the valve cover. The threads will do the work, not the cover - but chrome is a conductor anyway.

Also, I dislike wire nuts for automotive applications (too easy to short) and you have one on your electric choke wire.

Take the wire tie off holding the plug wire to the fuel line, you want those as far apart as posible.

The linkage types are mismatched on the throttle cable. The stock cable should have the ball attachment, if you get a replacement cable it should have the right end on it.

[HAULIN IT]

To answer your questions...Yes, the ground strap originally went from the firewall to the engine, either to the valvecover or a hole in the back of the head (depending on how big the hole is in the strap). The carb has the wrong part where the throttle cable goes on. Our trucks use a round pin with a groove near the end, a clip goes over it. The one you have is for a push-on socket type (older GM's & manyFords) throttle cable. You buy the correct one at Summit or Jeg's. Lorne

[GoatBeard]

Thanks for the replies!   

I'll hook the ground to the valve cover then, since that's about the only pre-existing place it'll reach and it'll be the easiest place to hook to.  Those valve cover nuts are easy to twist off and I don't think it'll break the seal to take one off. 

I think what worries me is when I see stuff unhooked (not specifically that ground, but all the other stuff) is that I don't know if they unhook those wires for some reason, or not?  Like they thought, "I better unhook this or that because it about burnt down the truck when it was hooked up"...   

When I got the truck it didn't even have an alternator on it!  I went ahead and got a new battery and was actually able to drive it 2.5 hours home without one.  But I had to get 4 different belts before I could find a belt that worked, even then I had to just give them the size -- none of the ones in their computers worked!  I'm thinkin' maybe that's why they didn't have it in there?  Who knows...

I'll get the correct part for my specific throttle cable & reroute those ziptied fuel/spark hose/wires.  Could someone post a picture of how the gas line should look with a filter on it?  I'd sure appreciate it!

Would it be okay to go ahead and solder those two wires together then put some heat shrink on there?  For the ones that are currently hooked with the wire nut?

The green spring (marked in pic below) that's hooked to the carb and to the engine hook (don't know the technical name for the hook) -- it's really too tight which makes the gas pedal REALLY hard to push.  I tried to get another spring at the parts store but they didn't have one.  Where can I get one of those springs and what would it be called?

Also, there's another wire in the pic below that I need an ID for.  That's the last wire that's not hooked up...  Thanks again, guys!!!   

[ccz145a]

Also, there's another wire in the pic below that I need an ID for.  That's the last wire that's not hooked up

does your temp guage work? That's what it looks like to me.