Lock cylinder removal

[bigfosty]

I did a search and saw a couple posts on this but I'm still having troubles. I have gotten everything off down to the blinker switch, but I can't figure out how to get the lock cylinder out. I read something about a lock cylinder retaining screw but the see only bolts inside my column. They look like they just hold that part of the column on to the rest of it. My cylinder actually broke apart inside and I had to slide the innards out and start the truck with a screwdriver. Now I can't get the outer sleeve of the lock cylinder out.

This is on a 1975 Chevy k-10, no tilt steering. I will put some pictures up in a little while, need to go do laundry right now.

Thanks for any help.

[bigfosty]

Broken cylinder

Inside of column

Broken cylinder

[Irish_Alley]

beside this pic theres a tab inside that square hole it has to be depressed and it should slide out look at the new cylinder you should see the tab

[bigfosty]

This square hole? I stuck a screwdriver in there but didn't feel anything.

[Irish_Alley]

Find Autozone online and using your truck make, model and year, find the ignition lock cylinder.  From this page you can access their repair manual and find a brief writeup and diagram showing where to break the casting under the turn signal cam to get to the spring loaded slider that holds the lock cylinder in place.  If memory serves, you are looking for a deep well in the casting located between 1 and 2 o'clock.  I tapped lightly on a small pindrift to break the casting and used a small screwdriver to push the slider into the cylinder while pulling on the cylinder at the same time,and out pops the weasel.  I remember taking the turn signal harness apart to get the cam out of the way.  The hardest part of the deal was getting the steering lockplate reinstalled.  It sits on a stiff spring that must be compressed to get the circular spring clip back in.  I used a pair of small hammer handles to press on the steering lockplate and my wife slid the clip home with a screwdriver.  About a 4 hour job in all, with half of it spent deciding where to break the casting.

hope this helps some cause im no help lol

[Irish_Alley]

I'm trying to find out for ya but nothing yet. i had the same problem before then i took a hammer to it all lol a new/used column from the yard fixed it all

[bigfosty]

lol

I'm not that fed up yet. But I have been in similar shoes.

[bigfosty]

I've seen the diagram but it's hard to tell exactly where they are talking about. I think they mean the area right above the left side of the red square I drew but I just can't be sure.

[Irish_Alley]

I want to say that the tab your supposed to put pressure on in the second pic with he red square slides in the keyway in this pic

[Irish_Alley]

the part that brakes out is about 11o clock of your square in the valley to the right of the screw hole right above it

[Irish_Alley]

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/01/StdColumnD&R108JL05.doc
use this if you need anymore help
the directions on removal are on the bottom of page 4 and the pic is on the bottom of page 8


Remove Lock Cylinder – Description #3
When removing the lock cylinder from the column, most shop manuals recommend inserting the ignition key and turning the lock cylinder to the “run” position.  However, the lock cylinder can also be removed without the ignition key being inserted.  Either way will prevent damage to the key warning buzzer switch. 

The 1969 thru 1976 lock cylinders are held in place by a metal spring tab that sticks out of the lock cylinder.  This tab engages a narrow, rectangular slot in the column housing #30.  Looking straight into the column housing, this slot is vertical and located right on the centerline of the lock cylinder, 1.75 inches from the underside of the chrome wings on the lock cylinder.  See FIG. 1 at the end of this paper. 

If your steering column has never had the lock cylinder replaced, there will most likely be a thin die casting metal membrane covering the slot.  Keeping a thin bladed tool to the right side of the slot, break the housing flash.  Now depress the spring tab. 

Remove Lock Cylinder (Continued)
Also I have found that if you don't push the spring tab pretty much in the center it will not release the lock cylinder because it tends to rock side to side.  Don't be tempted to pry on the lock cylinder wings to get the lock cylinder moving.  The wings will pop off and they can't be put back on.  With the tab depressed the lock cylinder should slide right out.  If replacing the ignition lock cylinder is all that you required, skip to page 5 and proceed.

[78 Chevyrado]

When I did mine, the hole was filled in....   just some flash from where the part was cast...   I dont think the hole in your pic is it, it's less square and more rectangular.  just poke around, you just have to stick something through it to expose the hole.   get a small screw driver and poke around...  shouldn't take too much force to break through, then you'll have the hole. you need.  IIRC the hole is wide and thin.  but it looks like there is no hole, where it actually is.

Once you find the hole, you stick a thin screwdriver down in there and it will pop a release  think about releasing a big zip-tie, it's sort of like that.


EDIT:  If I remember Right, the hole is in the red square...  Poke a hole there, shouldn't be hard.   If its not though, you get the idea about what I meant by it being hidden.

[bigfosty]

Thank you guys. It will have to wait till monday cause I have to work doubles all weekend but at least now I know where to look.

[bigfosty]

Good news- I got the cylinder out.

Bad news- It appears that the cylinder attaches to some sort of plastic piece which in turn attaches to a gear of some sort. Well that plastic piece is broken too. Is that part of the ignition switch? How hard is it to swap in a new column?

[VileZambonie]

It's easy to repair. You need the rack gear. There are two types

Does it look like this?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR3/83221.oap?pt=N0462&ppt=C0209