Lift points for 1973 Chevy K10

[Brady]

I purchased the book "ALI/LP Vehicle Lifting Points for Frame Engaging Lifts for the the years 1991-2010". I figured that they would be the same for my '73. On pg. 31 it says: "On models with rear leaf springs, position hoist pad under rear spring just behind hanger." Does this mean that the back of the truck is being supported by the spring? This seems to be in conflict with the insert entitled "Service Bay Safety" in which it shows "Adapter in contact with spring and hanger. DO NOT LIFT HERE." On the next page it has a picture entitled "Adapter in contact with hanger only. OK TO LIFT HERE."

Can anyone clear this up for me?

For the same vehicle, does anyone know where the center of gravity would be for an unladen truck?

TIA,
Brady

[beastie_3]

Take pics of the hoist and your pads if you can. When I lifted my 79 k10, I used the front hanger of the rear springs and the frame behind the rear of the front springs.

[Blazin]

" Does this mean that the back of the truck is being supported by the spring? " It does, just like when the truck is siting on its tires its supported by the springs. I have never heard of such a book. We just put the pads for lift where they make the most sense. Lift it a little, make adjustments to raise or lower the front or rear to keep it some what even. If its sitting fairly even front to rear, side to side, we allways give it a few bounces / jiggle it to make sure its stable. Then up it goes, we use adjustable lift tripod type jack stands once its up where we want it. As far as front to back bias, I just take into consideration the length, if its a 4,6, or 8 cylinder. or diesel. Then I estimate where the center would be for the average weight of the truck front and rear.

[beastie_3]

Lift it a little, make adjustments to raise or lower the front or rear to keep it some what even. If its sitting fairly even front to rear, side to side, we allways give it a few bounces / jiggle it to make sure its stable. Then up it goes, we use adjustable lift tripod type jack stands once its up where we want it.

X2

[Brady]

Thanks for the responses.

I don't have the lift installed yet.  What I am trying to do right now is to determine where it should be located. I got a MaxJax, which consists of two separate columns bolted to the floor, so making sure that they are properly aligned and leveled is critical.  One of my problems is that my floor was sloped for drainage, so I will have to do some grinding where the columns will sit.  I also have an '89 Ford Probe and I would like to position the columns so that they will serve both vehicles.  The MaxJax is (somewhat) portable, so I could leave one column permanent and have two positions for the second, if I had to. 

I don't have any way of weighing the front and rear of my truck, so I was hoping that someone had done that, or knew where the cg would be.  Otherwise, I will have to use the SWAG technique.   

[VileZambonie]

You lift the truck by the rear spring hanger and the front by the frame not by the spring.

[Blazin]

I would shim the lower post rather than trying to grind the concrete.

[VileZambonie]

I would shim the lower post rather than trying to grind the concrete.

This

[fitz]

Hopefully this will help.
The first pic shows the lift pads on the rear spring front hanger.
The second pic shows the lift pad on the frame just behind the front spring shackle.

[Brady]

I would shim the lower post rather than trying to grind the concrete.

It is not so much the difference in height, but rather the fact that one column is not vertical by quite a bit.  They specify that the difference in the spacing between the bottoms of the columns and the tops of the columns not exceed 1/8".  They do provide shims, but they say not to use more than one shim per bolt hole; unfortunately, mine would require several shims.

[Brady]

Hopefully this will help.
The first pic shows the lift pads on the rear spring front hanger.
The second pic shows the lift pad on the frame just behind the front spring shackle.

Thanks for the pix.  I did a mockup of the layout and I don't have much leeway in locating the columns.  I may have to climb out the window or else winch the truck into position.   

[fitz]

 I may have to climb out the window or else winch the truck into position.   
[/quote]

It can get tight.  I just pull the truck up to the lift, put it in neutral (with the motor off), get out and push the truck into place. If you are always working on the same vehicles try marking a spot on the floor where the tires are once you have it in the right spot. This will cut down on set up time next time around. 

[Blazin]

The floor at the shop I work in has a 1/2" pitch toward the center for the drain down the middle of the shop. The post on that side has about 5/8" of shim under it.

[Brady]

I think the only way that I am going to be able to level the spot where one of the columns will be located will be to use some sort of epoxy or similar material on the concrete.  What sort of epoxy would anyone suggest?

[Brady]

The floor at the shop I work in has a 1/2" pitch toward the center for the drain down the middle of the shop. The post on that side has about 5/8" of shim under it.

We didn't do a very good job of pouring the concrete, so the slope is not very uniform.  If it were, it would be easier to make a shim.  What did you make you shim out of?  They provided me with some small shims, but they said not to use more than one at any one location.  Also, because of their small size, they would result in a large pressure at that point and I think in time the concrete would crumble a little, causing the column to tilt.