Planning the lift, have a few questions.

[Psycho71]

'85 Burb - 3/4ton 4x4 w/350/400/208. D44 front and 14bolt rear diff's. Warn hubs in front. Lockers are not known at this time as I have been focused on getting power to the diff's, and will be digging into them as I work my way towards them. but the build sheet says 3.73;1 gears front and rear.


I'm getting ready to drop the newly rebuilt drivetrain in within the next week. It's all done, sittin in the shop just waiting til I get the time to deal with it. So next on the agenda will be the suspension/lift.

I have some 16.5x9.75" wheels and some Military 36x12.5x16.5 tires I'll start out running. Kinda of a budget constraint right now, but will be upgrading the tires in the future if I don't like these bias ply's. Not ever looking to run a tire larger than 36", and more likely will settle in around 35" with my final tire selection. With a very possible gear ratio change coming sooner or later, depending on initial drive ability.

And the more I read, the more I realize I am liable to be upgrading to a D60 front diff, and an NP205 at some point, but not sure if this has a bearing on my inquiry at this time.

Anyhow, I have been on the fence between a straight up 6" lift or a 4"lift and doing some fender trimming. Given the burb will need a paint job anyway, I am pretty set on doing the 4" lift and trimming the fenders before the paint work is done. Thinking on keeping the COG lower and overall profile lower this way. And by looking at a LOT of pics, fender trimming can be done where it doesn't look like a complete hack job.

So now is where I get to show my ignorance on the whole 4x4 thing. I know I can just get a lift kit and slap it on there, and get the lift I want/need. But I'm reading about add a leaf kits, shackle flips, etc... I thought I wanted a kit with front and rear springs, no lift blocks in the rear. This would leave me the option of adding a 1-2" block in the rear if I need something to level the truck back out once I get it all set-up and loaded to it's normal capacity (bumpers, swing away spare rack, roof rack, interior drawer storage system, etc...). I do not want to rear of the burb sagging like grandma's old baggy drawers. No offense to anyone's grandma intended!

So, can anyone explain if I should be considering a shackle flip as a portion, or the main source, of the rear lift? The benefits or draw backs of doing this? Operationally, or Financially? I have researched this online, and can't come up with a firm yeah or nay answer.

Same question(s) about the add-a-leaf (front and/or rear)?

The leafs on the front are flat right now, not sure if they are meant to be that way stock or not. The rears are almost surely sagging a bit.

This thing will NOT be a daily driver, but will see regular road use as my fishing and hunting vehicle. As well as being a trail and moderate off-road recreational vehicle. I want it to be capable of towing just about anythng I want to hook up to it, but mainly it will be towing my little bass boat or a 16' utility trailer with my 8n tractor and mower on it. Pretty much all my regular towing needs can be met using any decently powered 1/2ton pick-up.

Thanks for any advice y'all can offer up. And you cannot be too descriptive in your answers. I am learning this 4wd stuff as I go, so be gentle .


Jay

[Irish_Alley]

When it comes to lifts things you want to think about I went with new springs all around for one the old springs were just that old and worn out. You have to get new front springs. so you can put blocks under the rear,  shackle flip or new springs. And the way you choose is the amount of money you want to spend cause you also have to buy longer brake lines, sway bar drop if you want one some way to drop the steering arm there are a couple ways to do that most common is a raised steering arm, you can get a spacer or a raised adjustment sleeve also new shocks. When I bought my kit it cost about 1k. due to everything I bought with it and it was a rough country kit. Most say you don’t have to get longer drive shafts with a 6". most time you don’t but some have a problem for some reason. And you don’t have to upgrade to a dana 60 I run 38s with a d44 granted I do brake some things but my buddy is running 44s on a 10 bolt. I wouldn’t trim your fenders unless your trucks body aint that great.

[Da67goatman]

Cutout fender flares will allow a HUGE amount of tire clearance,, with out any lift, My buddy is running a 79 shortbed with the same wheel tire combo as you with no lift at all.  They are only like 500 for all four corners and they are much easier to install than all that other stuff.

[Psycho71]

Thanks for the info, both of y'all. I am asking Bushwacker's tech a few questions regarding the cut out flares. Funny how they can expect to sell a product which requires cutting the body of a truck, then not give any real technical info about doing it on their site. But I do like the idea of the added protection that'd come with the flares, as well as the clearance the body cut would provide.

On the lift kit; I have been looking mainly at rough country as a source for the 4" lift. Was already figuring on a lift with new springs front and rear, along with a raised steering arm, shocks, and then a new steering stabilizer set-up, as I'm sure at the least shock on my present set-up is toast as it looks to be the factory piece. Will also be doing a steering box reinforcement kit, as well as all new u-joints, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc to bring all of the suspension and steering components up to a known standard.

goatman, does you buddy's '79 have any tire clearance issues while at full lock? Any rubbing on the body, springs, or any other components he has noticed under any conditions? Would you know what kind of backspace he is running on his wheels? This might help me out a lot, given he's running the same tire/wheel combo I plan to start out with.

Still looking at options, although it seems my initial findings are looking like the path I'll be taking, with the possible exception of the fender flares and maybe on a 2" lift, if 2" is even possible without doing just a body lift (which I'm not really inclined to do at this point).

Thanks again guys, having a sounding board is always good to stimulate thought and bring up new ideas..

[Da67goatman]

I'll get some pics for you.  he has rubbing at full lock under flex, but his truck never flexes (street queen)  and he hasn't put the flares on yet, just trimmed a little bit of the fender.

P.S. he has 3/4 ton suspension and axles.

[captain carnage]

Here are some pics of a 4" lift with 35s and fenders trimmed nicely. The mud flaps aren't hiding anything, they just keep rocks from hitting the body. As for the driveshaft, I assume the 14bolt FF isn't factory. The pinion on the full floater is farther back than on the semi-floater and I don't think you would get away with a stock drive shaft on a 6" lift. I barely do with a 4".

[Big Blue 87]

4 inch lift should clear 35s or 36s with no trimmin..gotta 4 inch RC lift on my 87 with 36s

[captain carnage]

A 4" will not clear 35's without a fair trimming, I wouldn't recommend trying that.

[VileZambonie]

A 4" will not clear 35's without a fair trimming, I wouldn't recommend trying that.

This is not true. Wheel fitment plays a role in whether or not they will rub but with a full spring 4" I've always run 35"s without cutting (nor would I)

[captain carnage]

Well I suppose if its a narrow 35 on a narrow rim you may get away with it, but with many of the lifts that are marketed as 4" and a regular set of 35x12.5s I wouldn't try much off-roading. There are so may variables as I've said before, like true tire size, true lift size, how saggy the body mounts are, wheel dimensions etc. But from what I've seen I wouldn't tell somebody that they will get away with it, there is a good chance it will not work.

[Irish_Alley]

and this is why if you look at tire fitment charts they say for 35 you should have 6 that way they know they will fit

[Big Blue 87]

A 4" will not clear 35's without a fair trimming, I wouldn't recommend trying that.

 i highly disagree. 35s should clear completely fine. i run 36s with no trimming with a 4 inch lift with no problems.

[captain carnage]

Then your 36"s dont stand a true 36 inches, or your lift is actually bigger than 4"s, or both. If you have time throw up the actual measurement of your tires, and the distance from your hub center to the top of your fender, then we can compare. 

[Big Blue 87]

the tires im runnin are supposd to be 35.9 inches brand new. what they  measure truly idk yet. i aint goin out there tonite tho its to cold

[captain carnage]

No rush, cold here too