my 77 4x4 rebuild

[Tonka]

Beast!! This thing just keeps getting better. I did a twin stick in my 77 step side also!

[winky]

Beast!! This thing just keeps getting better. I did a twin stick in my 77 step side also!

thankya! i noticed that as well. your truck is a little bit more high class than mine

[winky]

http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/471072-double-hh-category-0-top-link.html?utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase&gclid=CJSS0vuk9bwCFVRo7AodrU4AVw#.UxPk7oWwUvo
those are what i was going to use for the heim joints. i did a ROUGH sketch of the cross member and ladder bars i would appreciate any input

     This would work under slow speed acceleration.  If I remember right you are using this as a mud truck, which means high speed and quick acceleration.  I would be worried with how much the shackle in the front would take all the abuse.
     Not that with the correct type of heim joints it would take all kinds of abuse.  I have to agree with 87V20Kansan, defiantly weld to the axle tube.
     I am just used to making a single mounting point in the front with a good heim joint instead of a shackle type, keeps movement to a minimal.

The main reason for the shackle style is for flex. it will mostly be in the mud but i would like to climb if i feel like it. the research i did i decided the shackle style would allow the most flex. First time ive ever even thought about anti wrap bars so im still soaking it all in.
Thanks for the replies ill try to add more pics. anything specific engineer?

[winky]

The "parallel with the frame" is key in the longitudinal dimension. Meaning that it should run straight with the frame from the front to the back. That way as the axle is put through suspension cycles it doesn't bind. Parallel to the frame from the horizontal , or side view is not really as important in this instance as you are not drag racing. If you were then there is a lot more geometry you would need to pay attention to. (Instant center, Anti-squat %, etc..) All you are trying to accomplish is defend against axle wrap under high load. Adding that bar will control the tendency of the axle wanting to rotate and bend the springs into an "S" shape as the ring tries to climb the pinion gear. I would do a pair myself, but I like symmetry! One well built bar will do the job. Also I would weld the axle tubes to the diff housing. Spend the money on good Heim joints for the front attachment point, specifically high flex "Johnny joints" so the bars can rotate with the housing during articulation.

from what i have read the housing is cast? which would require nickle plate something lol i get the different welding types mixed up. i just call them stick, wire, or the complicated one i was looking at an axle truss system that would weld to the tubes and bolt to the cover and pinion area

[87V20Kansan]

Correct. The housing is cast. But it can be done. You just have to preheat the area to be welded and then let it cool slowly. Truss that thing up. I only suggested welding as another option if you wanted to keep the budget low and not pay for the truss.

[winky]

I thought this kinda fit my truck

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[bd]

Cool!

[winky]

Thanks the emblem has been laying in my box for 2 years. It was that or the new "Silverado" emblem but I didn't like how they looked on my truck so I put the old ones on

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[87V20Kansan]

Nice!

[Greybeard]

http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/471072-double-hh-category-0-top-link.html?utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase&gclid=CJSS0vuk9bwCFVRo7AodrU4AVw#.UxPk7oWwUvo
those are what i was going to use for the heim joints. i did a ROUGH sketch of the cross member and ladder bars i would appreciate any input

I'd say that you could try those ends but be forewarned that they are not designed for much horsepower. Even tractor horsepower. And if you look at the condition they run in you will find they are always under compression when being used and tension only when under transport conditions (no load other than static weight) meaning, when they are being used the load is straight into the rod end and not the cup. Something to think about. If they were useful in this situation everyone would be using them in other words.

As for using just a heim connection at the front as 87V20Kansan says I have to politely disagree at least to a degree. It probably works just fine for a straight mud truck even so it's not ideal. If you drive your truck to the playground then the ride will suffer too. If it's a trailer queen then it's the easiest route to take. The reason I say this because the rear axle not only moves up and down and slightly side to side during normal driving and especially during articulation but the entire axle moves in a rearward arc during it's cycle from full bump to full droop. Unless you move your shackles to the front then the arc will be forward. Take for example a CJ or Scout front end, the common backyard fix was the do a shackle reversal on them to make the suspension work with a bump and not against as in the factory configuration. So by fixing a solid rod between the axle and the frame, even if the rod is at a neutral center point in the travel it will pull serious hard on the axle design at as soon as it moves from that point. This is where the shackle comes in, not just the side to side arc during droop on one side and bump on the other. The more arch in a spring the more extreme this front to rear arc becomes because the rear of the spring, as we all know, has to move half the distance horizontally relative of the vertical distance the spring compresses with the length of the rear shackle the deciding factor in how far that actually is (putting a 4" rear shackle on a 12" lift is a recipe for a really harsh ride).  I'm sure there is a nice mathematical formula for all of this but I don't know what it is. I'm beyond terrible with math. 

Anyway, if I have any of this wrong it's because it's been a while. I make no claims of ultimate accuracy. But when it comes to rear leaf-spring suspensions there is a lot of home brewed myth and urban fantasy about what actually works. Just because Joe did it and was successful does not mean that Ferds truck will react the same way. The chances are good but not perfect. My six inch lift worked fine with stock shackles, however, it would have worked a lot better with 1" longer shackles. I have in the past seen those 12" lifts using the stock shackles. Those fellas had no teeth left.   

[winky]

Thank you. I love post like this

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[Captkaos]

Pics of your bumper request....

[winky]

Detailed pics of bumper?

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[winky]

Phitobucket is action up

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[Captkaos]

yeah like a few close ups.  I like that design.  Looks like treadplate.