Getting a little fancy... 1987 V10

[frotosride]

First day of running after the bench flash by DOC at EFI Alchemy in Green Cove Springs, FL. It was a great day to get the bike out and so far the engine is running well.
https://youtu.be/-Cy4Zl-Lmeo

I ended the video but left the engine running because it it finally trying to idle. I have started it about 4-5 times and adjusted the idle to get it to this point. One of my main goals is to verify that at least fan 1 that is programmed to blue pin #42 came on and at the right temp. It's not viewed in this video but it worked the way it's supposed to work. So far I had two issues. First was completely my fault. I melted my ground wire a little bit on the exhaust but nothing is completly bare (I don't think so). The second is the vent plug on the rear of the drivers side head. Easy fix...when it's not in the truck! Stay tuned there will be more to come and be gentle on me with this youtube thing. these are my first uploads ever. I did figure out the tach signal. It was (still is) a loose crimp where my resistor does a cheap amplification of the signal so the tach can actually sense it.

https://youtu.be/_BSoEnSo4N8

[frotosride]

One more for the night... If you can't tell I'm a little excited. So the objectives tonight are:1) not disturb the neighborhood too much (so no rev's). 2) See if the engine will start without throttle input. 3) See if it will idle on it's own without me saving it with throttle...

https://youtu.be/3vNl8IQJR1g

As you can see at least one objective was met. The camera doesn't do the engine and hand fabricated exhaust justice. IT's LOUD!

[frotosride]

Figured it was time to scan for pending and stored codes. Also time to take a look at live data. I thought that I fixed the tach by doing nothing. As we all know or should know that doesn't work and it is evident in the video.
I did fix the leak from the coolant block off plate on the rear of the head. I replaced the aluminum rubber impregnated gasket with an o-ring. This will likely happen to the other 3 because the sealing is much better.
If there is anything anyone wants to see just let me know and I'll record it.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu5GY0wFuQHGAqdqz0w6PSA

I've modified this several times for anyone who noticed.. I'm trying to figure out how some people embed videos...

[frotosride]

Today I decided to tackle the tach issue. I have seen a lot of people post threads, videos and other randomness about just sticking a resistor in-line to the tach signal. Everyone says use this resistor or that and often times this works well however, the outcome isn't always desirable, ie., shaky or bouncing needle and cut out. Here is a way that will give you get the best resistance value for your tach and for your liking of how it functions. The first video is actually a little bit of a failure on the main objective but it lead to troubleshooting and a problem solved. I also show you how to verify the PCM is sending a tach signal. For that you will need the ability to measure millivolts.
The second video however, is after everything is fixed. I reset for the original video and accomplished what I set out to show everyone. Hopefully this helps someone, somewhere.
https://youtu.be/mWow-fculDQ

https://youtu.be/xhm1c2unXMg

[frotosride]

Prepping the Engine to be taken off the run-stand and this time it will finally sit between the frame rails for the first time. As I look at that pic I realize that I need to do something about that idler pulley.


Also prepped the frame rails for the crossmember and engine mount plates. I do plan on doing the rest of the rails but I wanted to get the crossmember in and leave it in so I did enough of the rails to accomplish that. I did all of this Monday and Tuesday night. I really like the way the crossmember fits. Next is mock-up of the engine...

[frotosride]

Unexpected but very glad I got a call Friday for all the Sonnax parts I ordered for the 700R4 and they were making a run to my neck of the woods to drop them off...Dropped off the Trans on Friday and Just picked it up today. All in I'm just under $2k including paint. Got better deals on parts through my builder.  Looking clean but it needs something..?




That'll do..much better I think.

[frotosride]

Now for the hardest part of this build. Energysuspension engine mounts. for those not familiar, theses are inserts made of polyurethane. They are a pain and I hope they last because I will not ever do it again.

 

Here it what they looked like when I first put the engine in. The inserts expand the metal housings a good bit by design. It is no simple task getting them to lineup and bolt down, especially by yourself! Unfortunately I messed up my paint trying to get them to this point...what a pain!




It took some doing and thinking but the first mock-up is well on it's way. I tested the stock manifolds and I have pics if anyone is interested in seeing them. They actually fit rather well. The only contact is the shift rod right at the frame rail. I only mocked them up because the shorty center dump headers I bought years ago for this swap will not work. I have ditched them as an idea because I just bought Schoenfeld Headers 1302LS1 today and v-band clamps. I'm not sure if I should put some flex tubes in or not. I also got a new Griffin radiator and the AN to hard line fittings for the fuel lines up to the rail. I have decided that since I replaced the tank selector and used braided stainless EFI rated hose from tank to OE filter (I'll try and remember to post pics of this), I'm going to test it's rated pressure.

[frotosride]

I've been slow on updates mainly because it's wiring time and that's boring to everyone. Unfortunately, my original desire to put the LS PCM in the stock location (above the glovebox) is not happening right now because it will not fit. The heat sinks are just to tall and I'm not cutting them off. I am retaining the wiring in a condition to do it in the future if I ever get the vintage air A/C kit. I am on hold with the wiring because the PCM will now be located on the passenger fender-well and instead of going through blades and cut off wheels I'm getting it cut out with a laser by my neighbor...hopefully today.
 
Aside from that, I have pulled every pin from the PCM connectors and broke the harness down into individual sensors, injector/coil banks, etc.. and started wrapping them with this loom I got off Amazon. It appears like a woven cloth loom but it's also heat shrink. So far I really like the way it looks plus my heat gun puts out 1800* and it doesn't melt instantly when I try.  I will upload pics when I bring my camera device in to upload.

I will also load pics of the exploded NP208 that I started tearing down. There isn't any obvious wear inside the case so that's good. One huge issue (to me, maybe not others) is the replacement bearings in the kit I bought. All of the needle bearings are right as far as will they fit and work. The issue I have are the plastic casings/retainers...!  Why in the world does anyone even make those! The worst part of this plastic casing/keeper design is the two main input shaft bearings have 1/2 the amount of bearings inside the bearing case because the other half is replaced by a plastic retainer. I will not put these in my transfer case. So I bought another Kit that I was assured had no plastic casing/retainers. We'll see when it gets here.

The two in the back are the input shaft bearings.

[frotosride]

Ok so I stumbled outside and managed to upload some pics. First up is the wiring harness. After unpinning everything I individually placed them on the engine to find out how I wanted to wrap them with loom. After wrapping the individual sections, i once again placed them on the engine to get the final loom on to discover that I cannot put the PCM where I wanted. So I'm patiently waiting my neighbor to tell me he is home... (I see his truck but since he uses the laser for me a lot and for free I'm holding off bugging him).

The beginning of the plan.


The wiring explosion..spaghetti


Here is the first mock-up with individual runs for injector/coil banks and other sensors. Once I get the PCM and Fusebox mounted I will finalize the looming process. You can barely see the Loom unless you know what to look for, that's what I like!


The LOOM

[frotosride]

I really like the Shoenfeld Headers. They fit really well from every aspect. Granted the Drivers side O2 bung isn't going to work but  everything else is spot on. I especially like the way they tuck up high and do not lay below the frame rails. The passenger side does have one issue but easily fixed. The fuel lines are rather close to the collector where they bend to connect to the OE flex lines that run up the firewall. When I finish the fuel system I will take care of that plus a heat shield for the rest of the fuel line in the frame rail.

[frotosride]

Last thing for updates and my biggest headache for the last two days... NP208. The tear down went well and nothing major or obviously wrong. The magnet did have a good bit of fine fillings on it from everything getting to know each other very well for 33 years. I haven't checked my annulus ring gear bushing for wear but I do have a lathe and micrometer if I have to replace it. Hoping the new bearings are void of plastic retainers.





Ford case half empty and ready to clean up stress risers (can't help myself) and cleaning.


Maganet ain't too bad.


The gear housing has a few bad threads..probably replace this.


I'm not sure if the minor damage on the driven gear speedo shaft input is deep enough to cause a problem but for $10 it's worth not going back in the case and potentially damaging an oring.

[VileZambonie]

Looking good. Keep at it! I just finally got my 4L80E parts in I've been waiting for. So annoying staring at parts on the bench waiting! Are you going to ceramic coat those headers?

[frotosride]

So annoying staring at parts on the bench waiting! Are you going to ceramic coat those headers?

Amen to that! I'm not sure if I'm going to ceramic coat them or try VHT flame proof paint. I've used it in the past on small engines and had decent results. Honestly, I've never ceramic coated anything and not sure where to go to get it done, if I can do it myself (my Definately go to option) and most importantly cost!
I do know that I will not leave them bare/temporary paint that's already on them. I want them to last. I couldn't care less about what color they end up being.

* update on the transfer case... Well in my frustration and poor lighting I jumped the gun and bought a new kit. Ultimately I lost money because the kits are exactly the same. With that being said I have to correct my earlier statement about plastic bearing retaining cages. They are a kolene steel retainer and they were updated to decrease drag an the potential binding of a full needle bearing race!
Yes I could return one of them but it was my mistake and as a God fearing Christian I cannot justify sending one of them back because of my inability to pay attention. Either way the NP208 is on the back burner because it's the 3rd to last piece of the drive train and wiring is what's on the chopping block for now. I will post pics and update that when I get a chance. Plan on making progress in that area today after I help some friends with their vehicles. One is a Kia that was hit and the other is an '85 short box that hasn't had any real maintenance done to it since the early 90's.

[frotosride]

Updated some photos in the google drive. When I get time I will host them and explain a little more. Didn't get much time today between working on people's stuff and people randomly stopping by.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ceiXHQHm2d381iEb7

[frotosride]

Wiring..wiring...wiring, thats been that story for the last few weeks. I could have been done a long time ago if I didn't want to integrate as much as possible into the OE harness. I started as always by exploding the whole harness and slowly putting it in loom piece by piece.



Here is 90% of the harness loomed and mocked up. I still have all the PCM gtounds hanging off the alternator. Making a good ground is crucial and I didn't want to just drill into the frame or firewall. Also you will notice that the PCM isn't in the cab as I mentioned earlier. I found a suitable home for it and kept the harness long enough to put it in the cab if I ever free up room.



Originally I only planned on using one relay fused relay box however things got out of hand and I ended up with two. The up side to this is all the under hood relays that I used and mounted to random (but functional) places are in a nice and secure location. Inside are (2) separate fan relays controlled by the PCM to turn off and on at different engine temps, A fuel pump relay, high and low beam relays and a few Ignition1 switching power relays. I also attached a fuse to the Tach signal amplifier in the second fused relay box. These relay boxes were relatively inexpensive and they came with all the terminal ends for each relay and ATO fuse giving me many options!