1985 GMC K10 build

[1967KaiserM715]

Yes using that floor brace, I couldn't get the inner rocker in with it in, so I removed it,

[1967KaiserM715]

here is a pic of that unknown bracket, like I said, looks cut, but cleanly. this is right behind the cross member for the rear cab mounts



haven't done all that much, media blasting is taking a lot longer with all the nooks and cranny's. I have to look into getting the cross-member between the forward rear spring hangers fixed, rotted through on one side...guess I didn't take any pics of that, have to remember to do that

also picked up a parts 6.2 short block(seized now) and pump and lines, pump is going to be a core, lines if they clean up alright will be used for converting the 6.5 I got to mechanical injection

[VileZambonie]

I wouldn't weld the rockers and corners in until you the doors or they aren't going to be right.

[1967KaiserM715]

I wouldn't weld the rockers and corners in until you the doors or they aren't going to be right.

I didn't remove the outer rocker and based on my measurements hasn't changed any dimension(loss of ...squareness) I also don't think I need to do the whole cab corner, just patch the upper section that was not replaced when someone else did cab corners

[VileZambonie]

Good. I just spent the day fixing someone else's mistake on a set of cab corners and rockers that didn't line up right.

[1967KaiserM715]

haven't touched truck, too much at work, and too wet to media blast. but figured I would post that bad cross memeber.

any ideas on a fix? place to get a good one? thinking of trying to get a hat channel made, then cut and re bend/weld the ends to kind of match the crossmember, but don't know yet

[1967KaiserM715]

so my brothers 86 1 ton may have a good cross member, surprising because the whole truck is a rot box on wheels, I'll be getting that to the house soon to tear into that and pull more manual tranny stuff for the upcoming swap

[1967KaiserM715]

pulled the cross-member out of the other truck, some rot, but much better then my current one, so I'll patch it with my original member









its only that one spot, so that marked out section is what I'll cut and patch, overlapping, and plating as needed.

I was very surprised at how good that member was consider the frame had fist sized holes behind the spring hangers, and the under supports were pretty much none existent, and it was still riveted in(which are not fun to remove)

I'll be getting the frame into the garage at some point so I can get it heated, then to paint I will roll outside, then roll back inside, done that plenty of times in the colder weather

[roundhouse]

Wow

Makes me glad we paid extra to get a rust free truck from Arizona !


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[1967KaiserM715]

got that crossmember patched, and didn't take a picture though. used the blasting cabinet to blast a few of the frame braces, and motor mounts.

got warm enough and sunny enough, so I rolled the frame out and blasted down a coat of Zero-Rust, I'll lay down another coat in a couple days





I used a pressure pot sprayer, works well when trying to get under the frame and all without worrying about the location of the paint container on some of the more conventional guns, paint will dry to a semi gloss black color when dry

[1967KaiserM715]

put a second coat on yesterday, took a half-day at work to do that.

tonight was just general wander around, started to look at the trans cross-member, blasted small sections that I felt would be more prone to rust through.

also mocked out a rear shock hanger brace


thoughts? at least 12 guage to 1/8" steel will be used-about the same thickness as the one at the front. it at least should be better then nothing.

I also plan on fabbing my own steering box brace, can't see spending $150 on that brace(the brace not weld on one), I actually am thinking for of doing more like a bent steel plate and spacers attached to the frame, that doesn't attach to the crossmember, but likely to change as I review my options

waiting on more Zero-Rust to paint crossmembers and any other frame braces. Cab should be getting work done to it soon enough, still need to finish floor side under seat, and patch a small section on the backside of the cab... oh and the passenger floor, can't forget that.

one more thing as I move along, is the brakes, I was planning on getting the Cunifer brake line, 25' of both 1/4" and 3/16", I figured that would be plenty to do the whole truck-it will cost me around $150 for the two rolls. but the stainless pre-bent line is like $225 shipped. is stainless pre-bent really worth the extra $75? I think I will have extra line over to do some fuel lines as well so maybe it would be more like $100 more

I really do like the Cunifer, because it is so easy to work with. either way, I guess they will both probably outlast the truck.

[1967KaiserM715]

doing some small cab finishing work, working around, small patch pieces where the PO didn't cut far enough to get out all the rust,  two small patches for the drivers side. one right in the upper door jamb, and one on the floor by the tunnel, where the replacement floor didn't cover it all the way. then two patches on the passenger floor, one over the cab mount, and one on the side of the seat hump, where there are a couple pinholes

[1967KaiserM715]

haven't done all that much, slow going, but welded the floor brace/plate for passenger floor in, cut out the rot in the floor(about a 8x10 section above cab mount) patch piece will go in tomorrow. then it should be two more small patches and I will flip the cab on its back to blast the bottom and paint

I'll have to remember to get some pics, been slacking in that department lately

[1967KaiserM715]

some pics, had to shorten the cab stand to roll it in the garage-initial height was perfect to get it off the saw horses, but I forgot where I had wanted to move it. so used the cherry picker to pick up the cab, worked OK in the dirt



some pics of the floor brace and patches, the patches will be welded tomorrow, got late and cold, need some oil for the garage furnace











and bent up a quick shock brace, got to drill a hole and test fit, but I like it so far, much better then nothing


here is a pic from last week working on the cab corner, used just a patch from the replacement panel, as the only rusted section was from above the previous replacement, I did weld up a couple holes the PO missed welding and just used Filler. I cut it large to make sure I got good metal and the rust hadn't spread



it's not perfect, the PO either used to much heat, or something, the weld line isn't flat but curved in a little. for a daily driver it is acceptable for now, will be trying to use minimal filler so someone may notice if they really look

[Captain Swampy]

Takes a lot of time and patience. Looks really good so far!