Body Mount Bushing Shims

[Ronno6]

The body mount bushings for my 84 C10 came with 1/8" thick shims to sot atop the bushings.
My truck did not have these from the factory.
Does that mean that I do not need to install the shims with the replacement bushings?

[blazer74]

They are for body alignment. Use them if you need them to maintain your gaps and door alignment.
If your gaps are good now and doors close smoothly I’d go back with what came out and go from there.
Factory used them when needed.

[JohnnyPopper]

They probably are for body alignment, but if your truck is the step side in your avatar, there is no body alignment like you would see on a fleet.

Really don't see how doors are involved with cab mount bushings. They are aligned within their space of existence usually with a lot of bad words included.

Tip: look for VZ's method of drilling two small holes through your door bracket into the door frame. When reinstalling the door, pin the holes before you tighten the screws.

That is assuming you're happy with the alignment first

[Mike81K10]

As JP said, "Really don't see how doors are involved with cab mount bushings."

I have attached a picture of the hardware used with my 1981 K10 cab bushings and Bushings, same for all four.

[VileZambonie]

If you want nice body lines, you need to factor in your cab and radiator support bushings. Whatever required shims or spacers are needed to make it right should be used. Door to fender body lines are impacted by the installation of the mounts. You can spot them a mile away when they are off.

[Mike81K10]

Brilliant point VZ.

[JohnnyPopper]

Having said that, the line traveling from the doorjamb to the rear of the cab, just above your key tumbler on the door, is the only true benchmark elevation you can rely on.

Draw a straight line from that point forward and shim/de-shim to the perfection you seek.

Use a surveyors device if you have to.

Both side of course 

Then hope your grill is level