357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc

[VileZambonie]

The dual exhaust crossmember is 100x better. Stainless, is a waste unless you are tuly doing quality stainless everything. Aluminized is fine.

[Mike81K10]

I worked on my engine a little bit today and will probably put it in my truck this week. I installed the flywheel, water pump, made sure it was TDC, and installed the valve covers (hardware came in), will probably have to remove them when I drop it in my truck to give me a little more clearance. Prior to installing in my truck, I will try to mount to wire looms and distributor so I can go ahead and get the wires the right length to make it easier.

[Shifty]

Looking like it can't wait to run....

[Mike81K10]

I sure hope so!

[Mike81K10]

I have always used a brass pilot bushing and I have a new one. However, I also have a Moroso 41100 Roller Pilot Bearing. Which is best to use in my engine and Transmission (CH465)?

Furthermore, both seem to be a very tight fit and I recall in the past that they were not so tight. Is it normal to have to use a tool to press them in?

[bd]

Yes.  There should be a 0.002" - 0.003" interference fit; the bushing may fit slightly tighter than the bearing.  You don't want the bushing/bearing to spin in the end of the crankshaft.  Either will work assuming both are sized to fit the crankshaft and the pilot shaft.  Whether one is superior is personal opinion.

[Mike81K10]

Thanks bd!

[bd]

I should add that 'brass' pilot bushings should be lubricant-impregnated Oilite bushings.  Do not use a non-Oilite bushing or you risk premature pilot failure.

[Mike81K10]

Is the Roller Pilot Bearings (Bushing) prone to failure? Which bushing do you think would be more reliable?

[bd]

Either is fine.  Both should outlive the clutch.  Where you are most likely to encounter problems is if you cut corners at clutch replacement time and continue to use a high mileage bushing/bearing.  From a service standpoint, the pilot bushing/bearing should be renewed every time the clutch is replaced along with a new throwout bearing.

[Mike81K10]

I have been trying to find a Pilot Bushing installation tool to no avail except the one that sort-of looks like the alignment tool. Did not want to beat or hammer one in. I preferred to press it in gently to prevent bearing damage etc.

Ended up buying a couple of 4" 7/16" bolts, grade 8. They did not have the right thread pith of 7/16 in.-20, so I used my tap and die set and ran the two bolts through the 7/16 in.-20 die about 4 times, and cleaned off the threads. Then gently screwed them in to check the fitment, using anti seize just in case. They worked out well.

I used the two bolts in a wheel puller kit (it did not have any 7/16" bolts - reason I had to buy them) that had to be slightly modified so the 7/16" bolts could be used. It worked out well with a flat fitting between the Pilot Bushing and the tool. It slide in without much resistance.

I reinstalled the two flywheel bolts I removed for the tool and installed the clutch and pressure plate using the alignment tool to keep the clutch positioned correctly.

[Mike81K10]

I installed my distributor so I can get the ignition wires sized. I was using my wires I had on my last engine, but found 2 or three a little short. Will have to buy sone new wires. M old wire were 8 mm and perhaps I will go with 8.5 this time. To size the wires I temporarily installed the headers. It is about ready to put into my truck. Just want to get as much done prior to installing as I can.

[Chevygold]

I've just fitted the same distributor to my truck and after a lot of research I found that the moulding on the top of the cap with latch at each end should be parallel to the firewall, a small point I know but allows best access to the cap latch screws.
BTW latch refers to the diagnostic adaptor used to monitor the ignition pulses from the coil.

Graham

[VileZambonie]

The way his distributor is positioned is correct. If you need to gain access due to firewall interference, loosen the hold down clamp and rotate the distributor. Most of us witness mark the base to the intake after it's dialed in so setting it back is quick.

[Mike81K10]

Yep, it is rotated a little further clockwise than because it is loose and the hold down is not on. I'm making sure the ignition wires have enough play when rotating the distributor back and forth for tuning. I will remove it prior to putting the engine in my truck to make it easier and prevent damage.

The distributor cap connector is on the drivers side and #1 is pointed toward that direction @ TDC. Same way it was mounted on my last engine without trouble.