383 kits

[75 C20]

im looking at starting to build to high preformance 383. i am looking at getting a eagle bottom end 383 kit. on summit it as about  valve reliefs - i could get 2, 4 or none- what should i go for- im am going to be putting edelbrock heads and intake on it when its done - heres the edelbrock top end im probly gonna get http://www.sdparts.com/product/E2096/PowerPackageTopEndKitSBChevy383460HPETecHydRollerCam198799Blocks.aspx

[VileZambonie]

That depends. What do you want to have for a compression ratio? The valve reliefs will allow you to have proper clearance when you opt for different cams. If you want to bump up the CR then skip them. 4 valve reliefs allows a better balanced piston.

[75 C20]

hhmm....- what do you think would be the best. im lookin to get as many ponies out of this engine as possilbe but i want a good running well balnced engine

[VileZambonie]

Then chose either the flat top or 4 valve releifs. As far as your compression ratio you need to consider the heads, fuel octane and timing. Higher c/r will give you more power but it's not free and there's lots to consider.... For a 383 your rev's will be lower, you'll see an increase in torque but what are you trying to build? A screamer or towing machine? Are you sure a 383 is what you want?

[75 C20]

well i kno 383 s are more of towing machines- but im kinda llokin  to build somewhat of a screamer- now im kinda just leanin towards buildin  a wild 350
heck now i dont kno just what exactly i want

[VileZambonie]

You can really trick out a 350 at really good prices and get excellent results. If you're opting for more torque from a gasser then a 383 or better yet a 400 is your best bet unless you are ready to step into the big dogs and go big block power. I can tell you owning a bigblock vs small block is very different but big blocks cost more coin to build and use more fuel. So I suggest you layout your driveline on paper and decide what you want and when you want it and how much $ you want to spend.

[75 C20]

i might just make a wild 350- just gotta figure out how much money i need to save up.
i cant afford to get a bigblock- its not the gas that is it but the massive price on jsut getting ahold of one and like said- 350s can be built with less expensive.

[75 C20]

i've been lookin around and what kind of ideas you guys have for bottom ends-the whole rotating assembly- crank pistons....
im amd finding a lot of 2 piece rear main seal ones-  since my block -a 95- is one piece i have to get a 1 piece crank to go back right? o will a 2 piece rear main seal rank work?
im looking to get about 450 hp out of this build
im probly going with a edelbrock top end power package
it will be a 355 im thinkin now so give me ne ideas you have for bottom ends

[VileZambonie]

What's wrong with the crank you already have? A machine shop can regrind it for under a hundred bucks. When you get new pistons have them pop them on and balance them for you and save $$. If $ is no object then buy a rotating and reciprocating assembly from Summit. And no the one piece vs 2 piece are not interchangable. The one piece has no conterweight on the back.

[the383]

You can check out flatlanderracing .com and check out their stroker kits , they offer alot , also alot of people seem to prefer scat rotating assemblies (better quality control). A few things to consider about the eldebrock top end package , if your block has a roller cam other cam companies have reasonably priced roller cams and lifters that are light years ahead ,and as far as heads AFR are the top of everybodies list but a little pricey. Brodix I/K 180 and 200's are great for a little over a grand and Canfields are nice to. I just think for the money your are going to spend on the eldebrock package you could put together a more powerful package for the same money. If I have hurt anybodies feelings I'm sorry thats just my opinion .

[Leadfoot]

if you want to make one of these trucks run,you just can't beat a big block  

Tim