NEW PROBLEM(S):

[HAULIN IT]

i guess what i'm trying to ask is, when a manufacturer says, for example, 2 1/16" do they mean the cylinder of the gauge itself, the flange, or the gauge face?

i got my ruler out, and things aren't making sense to me.

Stewart, I think only you (or someone holding a tape measure, caliper, ect.) that is where your gauges are can accurately answer that question. The size of the lip on the bezel dictates how sloppy you can be, however your goal is a snug fit. I have found the bigger holesaws (say 1 1/4" & up) will "gain" about a 1/16" in the wobble, so a 2" should make a nice tight fit on a 2 1/16" gauge & a 2 1/4" should do well for a 2 5/16" gauge. Good Luck!
 Only you could come up with Star Trek as an example in a post about gauges on a pickup truck forum  Lorne

[ccz145a]

The thing I remember about Star Trek: Never be part of the "Away Team", they always got killed.

[Stewart G Griffin]

OK, gauges are basically done as far as mounting.
To finish up:
1) should thread sealant be used on the coolant temp and oil pressure senders?  If so, what's a good brand?

2) Any specific suggestions or pictures of "T" fitting solutions that you've done would be cool.  i would like to have an actual gauge AND keep the warning light.


Next question:
How do i go about wiring this:


to this?



i know the large cable from the positive terminal on the battery goes to "e", but other than that, i'm not sure.

a) also what size wiring to use and should i use fuses or links?

b) which wire would go to the HEI cap?

[choptop]

Let me see if I can help.
Terminal A on the ignition switch is what is says. Battery positive from the switch to the battery. Id use a 15 amp switch here, maybe a 20. I dint think it would require more. I use the switches all the time. In fact I have about 6 in stock now.
Terminal b is accessories like radios and such. Not needed for the test stand
Terminal c is the ignition. Connect the power for you gauges, gauge lights and ignition to coil in distributer here.
The mystery terminal d is the starter output. It should go the s on the starter, or what you have as g.
The e terminal on the starter is the main battery cable. you knew that one.
R on the starter is what where I am a little unsure. I think it is hot only when cranking and send power to the alternator to excite the feilds in order to make it charge.
I would use #10 wire to the switch with the 15 or 20 amp fuse. Its easier to replace than a fusible link. Id us #14 for the starter and for the ignition to the distributer. #16 will be fine for the gauges and gauge lights if applicable.

 That is the way I usually wire the systems I build, but I also have a large assortment of wire and connectors, fuses etc.  You may be able to get away with #14 all the way.

[Stewart G Griffin]

OK, before we go any further, it might be best to do an update on some recent findings:

i went to try and find TDC#1 so could i re-install the distributor.  In order to do this, i took off both valve covers to see when #6 rockers were moving while #1's rockers weren't and vice versa in relation to when the mark on the harm balancer moved under the 0 setting on the timing tab.  i also took all the plugs out to make turning the engine easier and i'll show you the plugs in a sec because i think that may be important also.

What i found was #4's exhaust rocker was loose and not "square" on the "valve stem" as illustrated in the picture. If you pretend that the following picture is a road map, then i could move the pushrod N S E W and really any direction in the 360degree compass, but i could not move it towards or away from myself (up and down) (note: i am putting some words around quotes because i do not know the correct terms to use at this point.)



Later, i decided to tighten/adjust this rocker(rotating the crank clockwise about 45 degrees from #1's TDC---#7's rockers moving, #4's rockers not moving etc.)  As you probably know, you need to roll the pushrod in between your fingers while tightening down the nut.  i immediately knew something was wrong at this point.  Voila----we have a bent pushrod.


So.......do you think this could be the cause of all the problems?

The other thing to add, i don't know if this has anything to do with it, is the condition of the spark plugs:


Plugs 2,4,6,8,7 were similar.



Plug 5 was similar, with a little bit of oil but with no crud.
Plugs are RS 45's (will check exactly soon) and basically all carbon blackened.

P.S.  All 15 of the rockers seemed to have normal travel and none of the valves appeared to be "sticking."

[choptop]

Bent pushrods definately cause trouble. I replied to your other post. The plugs being black is running rich, and oil deposits possibly from worn valve guides and/or piston rings. The plugs on all of my trucks run a tanish color.

[Blue 82]

Is there a reason why the EGR valve is removed?

[eventhorizon66]

That's just one of the things Stewart was checking previous to his latest discovery.

[Blue 82]

That's just one of the things Stewart was checking previous to his latest discovery.

Thanks for the update

[Stewart G Griffin]

1)The other reason why the EGR is removed is because i can't get the valve cover off without taking the egr off too.

2) i guess the next obvious questions are, what caused the bent pushrod(i have my theories, but i want to hear the common reasons why first) and where to get a pushrod---from what i've seen, jeg's only sells them in pairs of 16.

[Blue 82]

I posted my $.02 on your bent pushrod thread
your local auto parts store should be able to get a single pushrod for you

[Stewart G Griffin]

Do all SBC pretty much take the same pushrods more or less?   Are they interchangeable with 305's  etc.?

[HAULIN IT]

Yes, Stock, pre Vortec SBC's take the same pushrods...you can steal one out of many.   

[Stewart G Griffin]

Pushrod installed and rocker adjusted.  Hopefully this time properly.

Muffler installed----thanks for all the help.

Next question:  What size heater hose do these trucks take?

[123 pugsy]

Pushrod installed and rocker adjusted.  Hopefully this time properly.

Muffler installed----thanks for all the help.

Next question:  What size heater hose do these trucks take?

5/8" and 3/4".