Ignition actuator - any better way?

[roundhouse]

Wow, I didn't realize they literally meant breaking through the casting. Thanks.

me neither

I've only worked on tilt Collumns though and they are different

[Junkie]

I got the old cylinder out. The metal part at the end was broken. I managed to fish the old part out of the column, and put the new cylinder in. It appears that in trying to get it apart earlier, I screwed something else up - it would jump teeth when I tried to turn it. So, I tried to get the new cylinder out, only to break the end off.

Any suggestions now? Another new cylinder isn't a big deal, I just don't know how to get the old broken one out.





Had I not fiddled with stuff for a long time before removing the old one the right way, it probably would've just worked...

[VileZambonie]

Do you have the key cylinder in the run position when removing and installing it?

[Junkie]

I had the old one in the run position when removing it. I think I had the new one in the run position, but it's hard to tell exactly and it may not have been quite right.

I got the old one out, got the new one in, and then broke the new one trying to get it back out.

[VileZambonie]

Good thing they're cheap enough!

[Junkie]

The problem now is getting the new broken one out. I'm not sure how to do that.

Also, any tips for assembly to get it to work right when I put another new one in?

[VileZambonie]

Just depress the button and push it out. If it won't depress, rotate it to the run position with a screwdriver. Don't put the new one in until the column jacket is back together. Make sure the actuator is in the run position with a pair of needle nose, rotate the lock cyl to the run position and just pop it in.

[Junkie]

I couldn't get the rod to move much at all. I also seem to have dislodged the tiny leaf spring that puts preload on the rack and pinion, so things may not be lined up anymore.

Once I get the new broken cylinder out, how do I get the jacket off to get stuff lined up right?

[VileZambonie]

You'll get it, just takes some patience and practice.  A little dab of grease helps hold things in place as well

[VileZambonie]

Maybe some Youtube videos will help. I didn't watch any of these so I can't verify if they're good but you might get some better visuals https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgXBxd0Bqp0

[Junkie]

That shows removing the cylinder in what I believe is the locked position - the little notch on the outside lines up with "lock". 4:56 shows that.

Mine hasn't worked right since I got it, so I'm not exactly sure what the right angle is. The fact that it's jumping teeth on the mechanism makes it difficult to get to a specific place, too.

I'm seriously considering just getting rid of this and putting a keyed switch on the dash somewhere, not too worried about theft. Electronically, what do I need?

[Junkie]

I got the cylinder in in the correct position, but it won't move the actuator - it takes enough force that it skips teeth. That's with the leaf spring that applies preload to the rack and pinion in place. Any suggestions as to why it's so hard to move?

[Junkie]

Also: I found a complete column from a floor shift truck, with a working ignition setup. $50 including an aftermarket steering wheel (which I'd prefer to the enormous stock one, which is also very sticky).

How big of a project is swapping the column? Could I use one from a floor shift truck, or is it a different column? Mine is column shift. Or I could just convert mine to floor shift...

[VileZambonie]

It would be cheaper to pay a mechanic to fix your column for you which is probably what you should do at this point.

[Junkie]

I'm not typically mechanically inept: I've done head gaskets on DOHC engines, engine swaps, etc.

I don't believe that I can get a mechanic to fix it for the cost of the new column, partly because some parts aren't available anymore. I suspect there's something jammed up down the column somewhere, as it takes quite a bit of force on the actuator to start the truck. Another option would be a problem with the switch itself. So a $50 column might be a way to fix that, if I can use a column designed for floor shift manual can be used with a TH350.

If I can't fix it the right way by myself, I plan on wiring up a keyed switch on the dash as the ignition switch. However, I'd rather do it the right way.

At this point it's driveable, I'd just like it to be a little more secure than it is now.