Cheap re manufactured crap!!!

[Fordeatinz71]

well, like i said, i'd get a multimeter and check them for continuity.  it's not all that uncommon for a wire to have an internal break and that be enough to lose connection.  and you won't see it with the naked eye.  also, you might wanna check your fusible links.  i wanna say one of them (don't know which one, will look for ya though) will cause you not to get a charge if it blows...

[JJSZABO]

Good luck finding the problem 

I will be starting the rewireing of my truck this weekend - I hate electrical gremlins!!

[nova801428]

Yep, they suck.

Anyway.  It feel kinda bad, because the alternator works fine (I am assuming) because they both read the same voltage.  Only 12....then they each started dropping.  Any suggestions before I start ripping the wire loom off and going crazy?  I could start taking the ohms or resistance of the wires as fordeatinz71 mentioned.  Thanks

[VileZambonie]

They don't get much easier than these trucks so go to the junction block and then over to your fusible links.

[nova801428]

Where is the alternator on the wiring diagram?  Could I possibly take the voltages at the alternator and figure out if it is working correctly or not?  Thanks

[VileZambonie]

check the fuse for the gauge or warning lamp, then check your fusible links. Let us know what you find.

[nova801428]

Here's what I visually found 



Looks like a fusible link that was pulled out or maybe it was blown and pulled out.  I don't know if it even has anything to do with the charging system, but it looks like it needs to be replaced anyway.  Thanks, does that look like it's the problem?

[nova801428]

I'm so sorry for the crappy pics.  Not my camera.  I should buy one just so I don't have to use that piece of crap any more.  Happy turkey day!!!

[VileZambonie]

That looks like the symptom. The problem would be what caused it to melt. Check the wires all the way back around the valve covers and make sure nothing chafed through and shorted to ground. Once you locate and repair the problem replace your fusible links that are toast and locate them away from the exhaust.

[nova801428]

They didn't look melted at all.  That one was just sticking out of the fusible link and has some corrosion on it.  If you look at the top of the second pic you'll notice a tube for the wires to go in so they don't touch the manifolds.  It wouldn't hurt for me to check either.  Also, I didn't realize how big the starter was and didn't know the relay or block was right above the starter (looks like a pain to replace).  I will check. 

[VileZambonie]

That's the starter motor solenoid. It's mounted directly to the starter. Check those wires behind the valve cover and make sure they didn't chafe through. Make sure you replace the fusible links. If you search here you'll find a few posts on how to replace fusible links.

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=5748.15

[nova801428]

does the fuse have to be in a block?  Thanks

[VileZambonie]

huh?

[nova801428]

Like does it have to be in a rubber insulated thing?  Or, can I replace it with a normal two prong fuse?  Thanks

[VileZambonie]

You need to use a fusible link not a fuse. A fusible link is essentially a slow blow fuse that will melt and open the circuit before the rest of the circuits branching off of them do. All of your fuses are essentially tapped into these fusible link sources. Modern vehicles use power distribution centers that share a common bus and have MAXI fuses. So Fusible link is the way to go. You can buy them already made or you can solder in your own correct gauge and length of fusible link.