Cheap re manufactured crap!!!

[nova801428]

So, by what  your saying is I can buy a new fusible link with wire sticking out of each side.  Strip both of those ends.  Cut off my old one.  Then, solder in the new link and then put electrical tape over it or shrink wrap (I think thats the name).  Is that what I do?  I am 100% sure.  Should I just cut off my old one, then go to an auto parts store and get a new one with the exact same gauge of wire?
Thanks

[chevyfan]

i believe what you are thinking is that black hard plastic is the fuseable link, as far as i remember that is not the case. The actual fuseable link is a peice of wire about 6-8 inches long between that black plastic and the starter solenoid.

[VileZambonie]

It should be the same gauge and length. Heat shrink is the way to go after you make your splices. Get the good heat shrink, it has sealer that comes out when it's heated to prevent any moisture from getting into the wire.



And yes cut it off where the factory black plastic end is.

[VileZambonie]

did you actually find a blown fusible link? Did you check the one at the junction block on the firewall? You can easily test it with a test light.

[nova801428]

No, I just found the wire sticking out of the black plastic rubbery material thing, and I was told before that that was a fusible link....the same as my 86 Ford Ranger.  I was told to tug on each side, if the wire pulls out, then it is blown, if it just stays in the same place....it is fine.  I assumed seeing the wire sticking out meant it was blown.  Anyway.  How do you test it on the junction block?  Where exactly is the junction block at?  Thanks

[nova801428]

O.K, I tested the hot wire that goes to the alternator from the block on the passenger side firewall and it barely lit up the test light, the same as the one on the right from it.  The one on the way left was hot though.  So, could that be screwed up?  I am going to take it off and clean the wires and what not.  Thanks

[VileZambonie]

Take your test light alligator clip to ground and probe the posts at the junction block bolted to the firewall. The test light should light up on both sides. Carefully pierce the wire with the probe just on the other side of the black capsule on the fusible link. It should illuminate the testlight just the same as it did at the posts. If it doesn't replace the link. Also make sure you check the wires from the junction block forward. Do the same test at the 2 fusible links down at the starter solenoid. Remember the fusible link blew for a reason so find the reason if it is in fact blown before you replace it.

[nova801428]

Take your test light alligator clip to ground and probe the posts at the junction block bolted to the firewall. The test light should light up on both sides. Carefully pierce the wire with the probe just on the other side of the black capsule on the fusible link. It should illuminate the testlight just the same as it did at the posts. If it doesn't replace the link. Also make sure you check the wires from the junction block forward. Do the same test at the 2 fusible links down at the starter solenoid. Remember the fusible link blew for a reason so find the reason if it is in fact blown before you replace it.

Yes, the test light lights up on both sides.

Yes, the fusible links near the firewall junction block light up fine on both sides and the fusible links on both the fusible links on near the starter solenoid light up good too.  The fusible links are fine.

I now have a couple of questions.

Am I supposed to be testing this stuff while running?

With a completely charged battery?

I had a spare battery for our camper.  Could having those wires connected wrong or anything to do with the spare battery cause failure? 

Should I start testing the resistance of wires?

What should I do next?

Thanks, Nova

[VileZambonie]

Unplug the 2 pin connector at the alternator. Key on Engine off do you have 12 volts at cavity B? What do you have at cavity A? If you touch the test light to the B+ terminal on the back of the alternator there should be 12V there also.

[nova801428]

I have 11.2 volts at the connector on both the wires with KOEO.  I have no power out of the alternator (where you plug the connector into) and I am not sure if I am supposed to.

I have no power to the other connector with the KOEO.  That is the one wire connector.

So, what shall I do?
 
BTW - I wouldn't be asking so many questions if my Manual wasn't horrible.  The charging  system trouble shooting pages were never printed.  It skips from pg. 15 to pg. 49.  And the trouble shooting pages are 18-19.  It sucks.
 
 Thanks

[VileZambonie]

If you don't have 12 volts at the B+ terminal the red wire single post on the back of the alternator there's your problem. Trace the wire down to the starter solenoid and see where it's open since you said the fusible link is good.  Look at the schematic I posted again....

[nova801428]

Here's my problem.  Here is where the wire goes.  It is the one in the middle.  The one on the left is HOT, and both the middle and far right were barely lit up while running.  Now, I am not sure where the one on the far right or the one on the far left goes.  Or, if the thing is even working.  I don't know what it is, is it a junction block?  Thanks
Do I trace the wire (the far right one) and find where it goes?  The wire in the middle to the alternator is fine, it shows little resistance.

[Dave Kay]

Here's my problem.  Here is where the wire goes.  It is the one in the middle.  The one on the left is HOT, and both the middle and far right were barely lit up while running.  Now, I am not sure where the one on the far right or the one on the far left goes.  Or, if the thing is even working.  I don't know what it is, is it a junction block?  Thanks
Do I trace the wire (the far right one) and find where it goes?  The wire in the middle to the alternator is fine, it shows little resistance.

Hmmmm... trying to follow this post maybe I missed something here but did anyone else see any mention of a dual-batt setup? Looks like that's what you're seeing there in the photos; a battery isolator. Had one on my '77 camper and eventually it went bad. When they're new they work fine providing you followed installation instructions but they won't last forever you know...

[VileZambonie]

Yes that's an isolator like you'd use in a boat or a camper etc. That's not a factory junction block. The factory junction block was on the firewall and football shaped.

[nova801428]

Yes.  Am I supposed to have both batteries hooked up?  My junction block is on the other side.  And I know what it looks like.  I was just trying to figure out why there was no power, and from there where the wires went.  What do you recommend doing?  Should I see if I am getting power out of the junction block, then see if I am getting power at the end of the wire?
 Thanks